Restricted Access

An SSSI and a Special Area Of Conservation, the vegetation in the gorge area is especially important. Among the rare species to be found in the area are Scarce Turf-moss, Tunbridge Filmy-fern, Deratocarpon miniatum and Rock Fingerwort. The rock face and exposures are also nationally important geological features. Vegetation clearance and modification of the rock faces is to be avoided without prior consent from Natural Resources Wales (NRW) and the clearance of trees and undergrowth has in the past has led to the real threat of access restrictions.

While NRW manage the North Side of the River, the South Side is privately owned and the land owner has stated that up to 6 local climbers may climb on the south side of the river. We ask climbers to respect this and to help improve relations by keeping the area tidy. 

Rockfax Description
A classic landmark route connecting a series of shallow grooves after a bouldery start. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A definitive classic of its grade. About 11m right of the Subversive groove is a prominent rectangular hold at about 3m Gain this with difficulty and pull up to the break. Pull over the first roof (crux), then amble up the slab to a groove. Pull round this, over an overlap and into the upper groove. Make a baffling move out right, then continue to the next BR. Swing blindly left into a short finishing groove and finish easily. BB.

Gary Gibson, Matt Ward, Martin Crocker 18/May/1985.


CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Rockfax South Wales Top 50 , CUMC Ticklist , Becky's ticklist , The Road to 8a , Rockfax South Wales Top 45 , Pathway to Triple 8 , The road to Statement of Youth , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3


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Guidebooks for Dinas Rock

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High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 53
Votes cast 54
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Jump The Sun

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Minchin Hole)

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