UKC

Restricted Access

An SSSI and a Special Area Of Conservation, the vegetation in the gorge area is especially important. Among the rare species to be found in the area are Scarce Turf-moss, Tunbridge Filmy-fern, Deratocarpon miniatum and Rock Fingerwort. The rock face and exposures are also nationally important geological features. Vegetation clearance and modification of the rock faces is to be avoided without prior consent from Natural Resources Wales (NRW) and the clearance of trees and undergrowth has in the past has led to the real threat of access restrictions.

While NRW manage the North Side of the River, the South Side is privately owned and the land owner has stated that up to 6 local climbers may climb on the south side of the river. We ask climbers to respect this and to help improve relations by keeping the area tidy. 

Rockfax Description
A pumpy and dynamic roof is combined with a very technical and thin slab up the face to the right of The Big Time groove. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A difficult route taking the centre of the big wall right of The Big Time, with two contrasting sections. Start just to the right of a tufa pillar and sapling growing from the roof. Monkey leftward and climb the tufa pillar to a baffling sequence through the roof. From the no-hands rest above the roof, continue fairly directly to a real stopper rock-up (crux). Continue thinly to a hairline crack and gain the break via a final tenuous move. Some holds have come off the route below the overlap recently and following feedback on recent ascents, the route has been upgraded.

Martin Crocker Roy Thomas 17/Apr/1998.

Ticklists

Pathway to Triple 8

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Dinas Rock

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Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Redpoint
Dogged
Route of Interest
Bitchin

Grade: 7c ***
(Oxwich Bay Quarry)

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