Restricted Access
An SSSI and a Special Area Of Conservation, the vegetation in the gorge area is especially important. Among the rare species to be found in the area are Scarce Turf-moss, Tunbridge Filmy-fern, Deratocarpon miniatum and Rock Fingerwort. The rock face and exposures are also nationally important geological features. Vegetation clearance and modification of the rock faces is to be avoided without prior consent from Natural Resources Wales (NRW) and the clearance of trees and undergrowth has in the past has led to the real threat of access restrictions.
While NRW manage the North Side of the River, the South Side is privately owned and the land owner has stated that up to 6 local climbers may climb on the south side of the river. We ask climbers to respect this and to help improve relations by keeping the area tidy.
June 2024 Small rock fall on Open Roads and De-Regulators.
Rockfax Description
A steep line with good climbing that is run out between the first and second bolts. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Has cleaned up substantially since the guidebook. The wall to the right of Munsterosity.
Gary Gibson.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Megan James | 4 Nov, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Bottom goes nice now, no beans left and just keep dropping the top >:( RH penultimate jug broke off once cleaning. Jug behind it looks ok to use though. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Bottom goes nice now, no beans left and just keep dropping the top >:( RH penultimate jug broke off once cleaning. Jug behind it looks ok to use though. |
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| Old Danny | 29 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Recommended this climb by local (who was pictured in my guide book) who was climbing in the roof of lower cave. He recommended extending the 3rd bolt with slings by a meter or so, then you can clip from the ledge. Then the 3rd become the 4th and no danger of decking. He also gave some great beta (ran out of time on the day, only 2 goes but should have got it, missed high crux RH move and fell) the start is nails!! But steady steep climbing after that, some big moves at the top, heroic, excellent climb. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Recommended this climb by local (who was pictured in my guide book) who was climbing in the roof of lower cave. He recommended extending the 3rd bolt with slings by a meter or so, then you can clip from the ledge. Then the 3rd become the 4th and no danger of decking. He also gave some great beta (ran out of time on the day, only 2 goes but should have got it, missed high crux RH move and fell) the start is nails!! But steady steep climbing after that, some big moves at the top, heroic, excellent climb. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dinas Rock
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Silver Sixpence
Grade: 7a ***
(Third Sister to Zulu Zawn)