UKC

Restricted Access

An SSSI and a Special Area Of Conservation, the vegetation in the gorge area is especially important. Among the rare species to be found in the area are Scarce Turf-moss, Tunbridge Filmy-fern, Deratocarpon miniatum and Rock Fingerwort. The rock face and exposures are also nationally important geological features. Vegetation clearance and modification of the rock faces is to be avoided without prior consent from Natural Resources Wales (NRW) and the clearance of trees and undergrowth has in the past has led to the real threat of access restrictions.

While NRW manage the North Side of the River, the South Side is privately owned and the land owner has stated that up to 6 local climbers may climb on the south side of the river. We ask climbers to respect this and to help improve relations by keeping the area tidy. 

Rockfax Description
A steep line with good climbing that is run out between the first and second bolts. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Has cleaned up substantially since the guidebook. The wall to the right of Munsterosity.

Gary Gibson.

Ticklists

South Wales Sevens

Feedback

User Date Notes
duncan b 21 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: We were also recommended to extend the third clip by a local. Perhaps the same one? In the end, we didn't . Personally, I didn't think it was actually necessary, or dangerous, to not do so. Your feet are only just above the second bolt when you can clip the third off large jugs.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We were also recommended to extend the third clip by a local. Perhaps the same one? In the end, we didn't . Personally, I didn't think it was actually necessary, or dangerous, to not do so. Your feet are only just above the second bolt when you can clip the third off large jugs.
Old Danny 29 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Recommended this climb by local (who was pictured in my guide book) who was climbing in the roof of lower cave. He recommended extending the 3rd bolt with slings by a meter or so, then you can clip from the ledge. Then the 3rd become the 4th and no danger of decking. He also gave some great beta (ran out of time on the day, only 2 goes but should have got it, missed high crux RH move and fell) the start is nails!! But steady steep climbing after that, some big moves at the top, heroic, excellent climb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Recommended this climb by local (who was pictured in my guide book) who was climbing in the roof of lower cave. He recommended extending the 3rd bolt with slings by a meter or so, then you can clip from the ledge. Then the 3rd become the 4th and no danger of decking. He also gave some great beta (ran out of time on the day, only 2 goes but should have got it, missed high crux RH move and fell) the start is nails!! But steady steep climbing after that, some big moves at the top, heroic, excellent climb.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Dinas Rock

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 32
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Joy de Viva

Grade: 7a ***
(Foxhole)

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