Restricted Access
An SSSI and a Special Area Of Conservation, the vegetation in the gorge area is especially important. Among the rare species to be found in the area are Scarce Turf-moss, Tunbridge Filmy-fern, Deratocarpon miniatum and Rock Fingerwort. The rock face and exposures are also nationally important geological features. Vegetation clearance and modification of the rock faces is to be avoided without prior consent from Natural Resources Wales (NRW) and the clearance of trees and undergrowth has in the past has led to the real threat of access restrictions.
While NRW manage the North Side of the River, the South Side is privately owned and the land owner has stated that up to 6 local climbers may climb on the south side of the river. We ask climbers to respect this and to help improve relations by keeping the area tidy.
Rockfax Description
A rising connection of routes that gives good climbing. From just above the crux of Subversive Body Pumping move into Berlin, then onto Still Life to finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A total mauler which partially traverses the crag. Pull into the groove as for Subversive Body Pumping and climb it for 4m. Step out to gain a conglomerate hold and a prominent wedged block above. Move desperately up and improvise rightwards to eventually gain a good no-hands rest on Berlin. Follow Berlin for a couple of moves, but step right to a vague flake and gain the top roof of Still Life. Cut through the roof as for Still Life to finish. Bottom of the Grade.
M.Crocker, R.Thomas 30.04.1988
Martin Crocker Roy Thomas 30/Apr/1988.
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Logged Ascents
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Bitchin
Grade: 7c ***
(Oxwich Bay Quarry)