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Rockfax Description
A brilliant pitch. Climb steeply to the roof and pass it to grasp a good hold over the lip. Move up the slabby wall rightwards passing an overlap with some difficulty. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An excellent line. Start right of Crock Of Gold and climb the groove to the right of the tufa on good holds to the roof. A blind, hard reach or a lurch gains a good hold above the lip. Pull through, move up and then trend out rightwards on the slabby wall. A hard move through a small arched overlap gains access to the finishing slab.

Gary Gibson 01/May/1994.

Ticklists

Rockfax South Wales Top 50, Rockfax South Wales Top 45

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
dan gibson 8 Sep, 2019 Lead RP
julesmckim 31 May, 2019 Lead dog Pumpy powerful sequence up to and over the roof after another problem start. Foot slipped off a minging hold - does this ever get clean and dry? Despite resting on the rope and not getting a clean lead, absolutely loved the upper slab - steady, technical, but nothing too hard.
with Rado
Pumpy powerful sequence up to and over the roof after another problem start. Foot slipped off a minging hold - does this ever get clean and dry? Despite resting on the rope and not getting a clean lead, absolutely loved the upper slab - steady, technical, but nothing too hard.
with Rado
Sam Brown 16 May, 2019 Lead RP
with Natalie Brown
with Natalie Brown
tobydunford 28 Apr, 2019 Lead dog Covered in a fine film of lichenous dust, I cleaned a bit but.... I'm gonna need a bigger brush. Some good climbing under there, might come back. Shame expected a stellar experience, surprised so dirty. Fun climbing through the roof
with Tomar
Covered in a fine film of lichenous dust, I cleaned a bit but.... I'm gonna need a bigger brush. Some good climbing under there, might come back. Shame expected a stellar experience, surprised so dirty. Fun climbing through the roof
with Tomar
Rob Knowles 5 Sep, 2018 Lead RP First lower off as I didn't bring enough draws (7a+ version)
with OERees
First lower off as I didn't bring enough draws (7a+ version)
with OERees
afrosam 1 Sep, 2018 Lead RP 2nd go after some cleaning, proper filthy
2nd go after some cleaning, proper filthy
nickmoulden 3 Jun, 2018 Lead RP So dirty, did not enjoy at all...
with zoe bidula
So dirty, did not enjoy at all...
with zoe bidula
Hidden 29 Jul, 2017 Lead RP
Cassidy 18 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell u 4 Jul, 2017 Lead dnf Attempt nearly ended at the first move. Until I finally managed to work out a way through. Attempt ended trying to pass the lip. Think I may have worked out what to do but not sure I had the guns for it today. Would like to come back to sample the top slab!
Attempt nearly ended at the first move. Until I finally managed to work out a way through. Attempt ended trying to pass the lip. Think I may have worked out what to do but not sure I had the guns for it today. Would like to come back to sample the top slab!
realbobsmith 4 Jul, 2017 Lead RP
Hidden 7 May, 2017 Lead RP
Tomas P 17 Apr, 2017 Lead RP
with Jon
with Jon
phillipwright 13 Apr, 2017 Lead RP Really nice slab climbing after the overhang
with mop449
Really nice slab climbing after the overhang
with mop449
John_Beesley u 13 Apr, 2017 Lead RP 2nd go. Crux over bulge was definite hardest bit for me. Powerful stuff followed by nervey fingery slab brilliance. Epic.
2nd go. Crux over bulge was definite hardest bit for me. Powerful stuff followed by nervey fingery slab brilliance. Epic.
Hidden 7 Apr, 2017 Lead RP
Billg 17 Aug, 2016 Lead rpt
with Del Jones
with Del Jones
caradogr 5 Aug, 2016 Lead RP
with Virgil
with Virgil
Simon17 30 May, 2015 Lead RP This climb is a lie, it looks awesome through a steep overhang, but is really a meandering wander up a long slab (woman and children only...) The overhang is pretty easy and the slab goes on for so long it made me wish i had taken up golf instead... It was also a tremendous 'privilege' to climb this in the midday sun, thanks, that helped no end!
with mop449
This climb is a lie, it looks awesome through a steep overhang, but is really a meandering wander up a long slab (woman and children only...) The overhang is pretty easy and the slab goes on for so long it made me wish i had taken up golf instead... It was also a tremendous 'privilege' to climb this in the midday sun, thanks, that helped no end!
with mop449
joe1joe1joe2 30 May, 2015 Lead dog Felt hard for 7b. Harlem felt easier. The route was very dirty/dusty, caked with a thing layer of mud, which made slab climbing pretty hard.
Felt hard for 7b. Harlem felt easier. The route was very dirty/dusty, caked with a thing layer of mud, which made slab climbing pretty hard.
Hidden 10 Sep, 2014 Lead dog
dan cook 31 May, 2014 Lead RP Fantastic climbing. Got on the right route this time.
Fantastic climbing. Got on the right route this time.
guy xavier percival 20 Sep, 2013 Lead rpt Super route. No really hard moves but sustained. The slab is falloffable at several points
with paul
Super route. No really hard moves but sustained. The slab is falloffable at several points
with paul
Kyuzo 11 Jul, 2013 -
MorganPreece 5 Jul, 2013 Lead rpt Showing matt the beta.
with Matt Smith
Showing matt the beta.
with Matt Smith
MorganPreece 1 Jul, 2013 Lead RP After putting the draws in. 1st pitch.
with Monty
After putting the draws in. 1st pitch.
with Monty
Billg 19 Jun, 2013 Lead RP
with Lee Bateman, Andy Wiseman
with Lee Bateman, Andy Wiseman
EliotStephens ? Jun, 2013 Lead 2nd go, first pitch.
with Chris Shep
2nd go, first pitch.
with Chris Shep
OERees 18 May, 2013 Lead RP First pitch 7a+. 2nd go
First pitch 7a+. 2nd go
OERees 18 May, 2013 Lead dog Fell on top slab.
Fell on top slab.
Hidden ??, 2013 -
chris wyatt 2 Jun, 2012 Lead RP Brilliant climb which will test many of your climbing skills (and power)
with Tiger Tom
Brilliant climb which will test many of your climbing skills (and power)
with Tiger Tom
richardr 31 Mar, 2012 Lead RP Chuffed to get this one! First go today.
Chuffed to get this one! First go today.
Billg 18 Mar, 2012 Lead RP
mikeshewring 14 Aug, 2011 Lead RP Good route. A long reach helps. Top rope flash then 1st red point.
Good route. A long reach helps. Top rope flash then 1st red point.
Mike Goldthorp 27 Jul, 2011 Lead RP Incredible route, amazing steep moves up wild territory through the roof, especially for 7b, hard blind slap to onsight! And then brilliant unrelenting slab climbing all the way to the top! 3* classic. Dog then lead 1st redpoint.
with Ben Norman
Incredible route, amazing steep moves up wild territory through the roof, especially for 7b, hard blind slap to onsight! And then brilliant unrelenting slab climbing all the way to the top! 3* classic. Dog then lead 1st redpoint.
with Ben Norman
Hidden 3 Jul, 2011 Lead RP
Dan_Carroll 5 Jun, 2011 Lead RP
with Si Robinson, Mateusz
with Si Robinson, Mateusz
Hidden 4 Jun, 2011 Lead RP
eddy-on-the-rocks 8 May, 2011 Lead dog
with James
with James
Hidden 10 Apr, 2011 Lead RP
Hidden 10 Apr, 2011 Lead RP
Caspian Johnson 15 Dec, 2010 Lead RP In December, merry christmas!
In December, merry christmas!
BicepAndrews 20 Oct, 2010 Lead dog
with simonr
with simonr
crispyboy 29 Aug, 2010 Lead RP
with paul black
with paul black
irish paul 29 Aug, 2010 Lead dog Two rests to work out the moves, lovely upper slab
with Chris J
Two rests to work out the moves, lovely upper slab
with Chris J
Billg ? Aug, 2010 Lead RP
Hidden 25 Jul, 2010 Lead dog
Wil Treasure 10 Oct, 2009 Lead RP First go of the day after Chris put the first few draws in for me.
First go of the day after Chris put the first few draws in for me.
Wil Treasure 5 Oct, 2009 Lead dog Led to first loweroff second go (worth a name, The Sharp Cereal Reader? 7a-ish). Lobbed just after 10th bolt a few times due to dirty holds and tiredness. A very good route with contrasting cruxes.
Led to first loweroff second go (worth a name, The Sharp Cereal Reader? 7a-ish). Lobbed just after 10th bolt a few times due to dirty holds and tiredness. A very good route with contrasting cruxes.
Hidden 30 Aug, 2009 Lead RP
Cowflinger 8 Jul, 2009 Lead RP
with Dean Howard
with Dean Howard
jfreeman 21 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S
with simonr
with simonr
simonr 20 Sep, 2008 Lead RP
with Andy Cockburn
with Andy Cockburn
Hidden 17 Jul, 2008 Lead RP
Hidden 5 May, 2008 Lead RP
goi.ashmore 15 May, 1994 Lead RP 3rd Ascent (Meeky beating me to the 2nd). It was hammering it down!
with Simon Coles, Andy Meek, Adrian Eggleton
3rd Ascent (Meeky beating me to the 2nd). It was hammering it down!
with Simon Coles, Andy Meek, Adrian Eggleton
Hidden ? May, 1994 Lead RP
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Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Lead
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Nostradamus

Grade: 7b ***
(Rams Tor)