Rockfax Description
A twelve pitch climb up the centre of Pillaren's massive buttress, that forms the main angle of the mountain between the tall rambling face to the right and the clean slab of the main slabby section and Bare blåbær down to the left. A good quality long route with an Alpine feel and not too difficult. Some large gear will be found useful for the wider cracks. Route finding can be difficult, though in general stay just to the left of the grassy section in the middle of the buttress. Once the steeper rock of the summit wall is reached (above the large ledge system) climb a high quality crack and groove system up the middle of the headwall - variations possible. © Rockfax
Odd-Roar Wilk, Niels Poulsen Sep/1990.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| funter | 5 Jul |
Show βeta
βeta: Descent involves a lot of extremely exposed scrambling. We followed a Norwegian local. From the large finishing ledge on the right, traverse the right side of the ridge for 50m, climb/scramble/solo on to the short ridge proper via short rock slab. From the end of the sharp ridge go up and right, then down , then back up and keep traversing till you get to a big green gully. Go up the green gully to very near its top, then traverse right again on a thin ledge/path (exposed). From here you can see the big left slanting slab, go down this (exposed) to its far corner (10m) where you will find old abseil tat. Abseil 5/10m. From this point you can keep traversing right until you see the descent spur/ridge which joins the main vagakellen walking path. There are cairns here and there marking the way. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Descent involves a lot of extremely exposed scrambling. We followed a Norwegian local. From the large finishing ledge on the right, traverse the right side of the ridge for 50m, climb/scramble/solo on to the short ridge proper via short rock slab. From the end of the sharp ridge go up and right, then down , then back up and keep traversing till you get to a big green gully. Go up the green gully to very near its top, then traverse right again on a thin ledge/path (exposed). From here you can see the big left slanting slab, go down this (exposed) to its far corner (10m) where you will find old abseil tat. Abseil 5/10m. From this point you can keep traversing right until you see the descent spur/ridge which joins the main vagakellen walking path. There are cairns here and there marking the way. |
||||
| painjansen | 2 Jan, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Don’t even try to find the abseil on this route. There are no fixed abseil points. Instead follow the ridge for a long time before scrabbling down towards a path on the right | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Don’t even try to find the abseil on this route. There are no fixed abseil points. Instead follow the ridge for a long time before scrabbling down towards a path on the right |
||||
| henrygiles99 | 22 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: We heard on the grapevine about a rescue on this route from a party trying to descend via abseil. Apparently there are no fixed abseil point. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: We heard on the grapevine about a rescue on this route from a party trying to descend via abseil. Apparently there are no fixed abseil point. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Djupfjord
Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 49 users have this on their wishlist
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Sjømann
Grade: n6- ***
(Marklitinden)