Rockfax Description
III, 9.5km 6 - 8 hours. A true Chamonix classic which sees surprisingly little traffic, probably because of the amount of walking required at both the start and finish of the route. It is well worth the effort though for the views and solitude in Himalayan-esque surroundings. Spending two nights in the Refuge des Conscrits and climbing Mont Tondu one day and this route the next day is a superb use of a few sunny summer days.
Approach - Leave the Refuge des Conscrits and head northeast towards the Aiguille de la Bérangère, taking the line of least resistance. Everyone seems to take a different route here, so simply pick the best way. The approach time given is the time taken to get from the refuge to the summit of the Bérangère.
1) Climb the final slope just below the summit of the Aiguille de la Bérangère. This steepens considerably to around 35 degrees and then easy scrambling leads to the summit.
2) From the top of the Bérangère, descend the thin and exposed ridge leading north - this is much easier under a good cover of firm snow. If dry this will involve some rocky scrambling on occasionally loose blocks. In good conditions it should take roughly half an hour from the top of the Bérangère to reach the Col de la Bérangère which is a good viewpoint for the Tré la Tête peaks and the Glacier d'Armancette, which drops away steeply to the north.
3) Continue east and climb the snow slopes on the left of the ridge leading to Point 3670m. Follow the easy but exposed ridge in a spectacular position over Points 3666m and 3633m before dropping down to the Col des Dômes. It is possible to descend from here without tagging Point 3673m, but seeing as it can be reached without technical difficulty and is the highest of all the Dômes, it seems a shame not to nip up it before coming back to the Col des Dômes and descending.
Descent - Walk down easily to reach the Glacier de Tré la Tête and follow this on its right-hand side back down to the Refuge des Conscrits. There is some crevasse danger on the descent, particularly in the first kilometre or so. © Rockfax

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