UKC

3700m.

Rockfax Description
III, 9.5km 6 - 8 hours. A true Chamonix classic which sees surprisingly little traffic, probably because of the amount of walking required at both the start and finish of the route. It is well worth the effort though for the views and solitude in Himalayan-esque surroundings. Spending two nights in the Refuge des Conscrits and climbing Mont Tondu one day and this route the next day is a superb use of a few sunny summer days.

1) Climb the final slope just below the summit of the Aiguille de la Bérangère. This steepens considerably to around 35 degrees and then easy scrambling leads to the summit.
2) From the top of the Bérangère, descend the thin and exposed ridge leading north - this is much easier under a good cover of firm snow. If dry this will involve some rocky scrambling on occasionally loose blocks. In good conditions it should take roughly half an hour from the top of the Bérangère to reach the Col de la Bérangère which is a good viewpoint for the Tré la Tête peaks and the Glacier d'Armancette, which drops away steeply to the north.
3) Continue east and climb the snow slopes on the left of the ridge leading to Point 3670m. Follow the easy but exposed ridge in a spectacular position over Points 3666m and 3633m before dropping down to the Col des Dômes. It is possible to descend from here without tagging Point 3673m, but seeing as it can be reached without technical difficulty and is the highest of all the Dômes, it seems a shame not to nip up it before coming back to the Col des Dômes and descending to the hut. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif , ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50 , Big Routes , Rosie's Broken Alpine Dreaming , Alpine Progression , A mix of routes to the summits of great Peaks in the Alps via standard'ish routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
Webster 27 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: if doing SW-NE, dont be tempted into following the well marked and travelled footpath too far, it will take you down onto the glacier for a NE-SW traverse. just head straight up towards the Berangere
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: if doing SW-NE, dont be tempted into following the well marked and travelled footpath too far, it will take you down onto the glacier for a NE-SW traverse. just head straight up towards the Berangere
edprince 25 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Quicker and easier to get to the Conscrits Refuge from the valley via the glacier, not on the higher path. Doing the route west to east allows early glacier travel
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Quicker and easier to get to the Conscrits Refuge from the valley via the glacier, not on the higher path. Doing the route west to east allows early glacier travel

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High PD+
Mid PD+
Low PD+
High PD
Mid PD
Low PD
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Traversée des Crochues

Grade: PD+ 4a ***
(Aiguilles Rouges)

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