UKC

Restricted Access

The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

-  Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.

-  Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.

28m.

Rockfax Description
A magnificent line, great for aficionados of slippery limestone jamming. Follow the crack-line throughout. The main difficulties are concentrated in passing the lip of the biggest roof. Marks will be deducted for shoddy style, use of knees and any squealing. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Read, Roy Leeming, D.Carnell, P.Brown, S.Hunt 1956 Done with 1 pt by Leeming in 1965.

Ticklists

Definitive *** Peak Lime , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Off The Radar 300, Every Crag in The Peak

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 10
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
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High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
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Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Alcasan

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Stoney Middleton)

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