UKC

Restricted Access

The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

-  Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.

-  Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.

28m.

Rockfax Description
The line which became known as the 'Easter Island of Hard Rock fame' was always a bit disappointing and there was good reason for that - it wasn't the correct line! Start up Easter Island but keep on the right-hand side of the arete (or grubby easy ground further right) to a big thread. Swing up and left to join Easter Island in its upper groove where the route earns its stars. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
This is what many people have climbed over the years thinking it was Easter Island. In fact the original route is more on the left-hand side of the arete and a good bit harder. The names have been switched now to reflect the historical accuracy.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Peak Rock/10/White Life , Ultimate E1 ticklist , On Peak Rock , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , The Festival Of Shite , Peak District Limestone Trad , Peak District Pinnacles , Dunc's ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Graeme Hammond 12 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Easter Island was in Extreme Rock not of "Hard Rock fame"
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Easter Island was in Extreme Rock not of "Hard Rock fame"
Ropeboy 24 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Very enjoyable, expect an audience if you do it on the weekend.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very enjoyable, expect an audience if you do it on the weekend.

Logged Ascents

413 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Dovedale

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 117 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 67
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 62
Votes cast 64
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Kelly's Overhang

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Stanage North)

Loading Notifications...