UKC

Rockfax Description
The true line of the route 'Easter Island' as climbed by Ed Ward-Drummond in 1972. It is still a bit escapable but does give better and more sustained climbing than the common modern version now renamed 'Easter Edge'. From the gearing-up ledge above the river, pull onto the right face and climb the arete as closely as possible until a diagonal crack. Swing up this and make rapid moves up a crack to gain the upper groove. Follow this in a majestic position, moving left of the final roof. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
This climb has been re-named to keep it in line with the latest guidebook entries and to be more historically accurate. If you are ticking it having donw what you thought was an E1, then it is likely that you have climbed what is now called Easter Edge.

FA. Ed Ward-Drummond, Hamish Green-Armytage 1972.

Ticklists

Definitive *** Peak Lime , The Festival Of Shite , Lime trad for hobbyists

Feedback

User Date Notes
WillMancini 15 Feb Show βeta
βeta: It’s 3 star all day this, super pumpy near the top. But the cracks allow you to get enough back to top out. Amazing route.
βeta?
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βeta: It’s 3 star all day this, super pumpy near the top. But the cracks allow you to get enough back to top out. Amazing route.
LisaA 19 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Most of the pegs are a lost cause but there are other decent placements.
Show beta
βeta: Most of the pegs are a lost cause but there are other decent placements.
Longsufferingropeholder 6 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: There's a rattling chunk at the start of the crack after you turn the arete. Seemed keyed in but if it did come out your belayer would have a bad day. Maybe try to set things up so they have enough mobility to dodge a bit.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There's a rattling chunk at the start of the crack after you turn the arete. Seemed keyed in but if it did come out your belayer would have a bad day. Maybe try to set things up so they have enough mobility to dodge a bit.
Graeme Hammond 17 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Lots of old pegs, all apart from one are either rotted or impossible to clip, however there is loads of other good wires. The true line and Extreme Rock tick.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lots of old pegs, all apart from one are either rotted or impossible to clip, however there is loads of other good wires. The true line and Extreme Rock tick.
accynez 1 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant. This needs adding to the Extreme Rock ticklist and Easter Edge taking off it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant. This needs adding to the Extreme Rock ticklist and Easter Edge taking off it.
Simon King 21 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Confused...this route now seems to cover most of The White Edge (E3 6a) at E2 5c... You've created an excellent route, it's just pretty hard E3 5c IMO. Beta...tat on the first peg needs replacing and the second peg is shite!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Confused...this route now seems to cover most of The White Edge (E3 6a) at E2 5c... You've created an excellent route, it's just pretty hard E3 5c IMO. Beta...tat on the first peg needs replacing and the second peg is shite!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Dovedale

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 13
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Fern Hill

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Cratcliffe Tor)

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