UKC

Restricted Access

The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

-  Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.

-  Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.

26m.

Rockfax Description
Cue the Rocky music. A big bruising pitch up the finest bit of rock in the valley. Mega-classic and about sport 7c+. From the ever-dry ledge under the face, climb into a niche, then follow the searing crack into ever more desperate terrain. At the horizontal crack, swing right for respite in the final section of Easter Island. With several pieces of fixed and old jammed gear it is nearer E6. © Rockfax

FA. P Williams J Amies 1963 FFA. Ron Fawcett 1982.

Ticklists

Trad climbs for sport climbers , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , World Graded List , Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue , 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Hard Routes , 100 Worthwhile E7's , Hard Peak Limestone Trad , The Festival Of Shite

Feedback

User Date Notes
Peaklime_bagger 4 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Around 7c/+. The frequently in-situ (convenient rather than jammed) wire at the technical crux probably reduces the E grade but it's still hard. Very likely the best limestone trad route in the Peak District.
Show beta
βeta: Around 7c/+. The frequently in-situ (convenient rather than jammed) wire at the technical crux probably reduces the E grade but it's still hard. Very likely the best limestone trad route in the Peak District.
tintinandpip 4 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Superb route, it felt 7c+ to me, E6 if the wire on the crux is pre placed ( which it was )
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb route, it felt 7c+ to me, E6 if the wire on the crux is pre placed ( which it was )

Logged Ascents

46 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Dovedale

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Voting
High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
Votes cast 6
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Janus

Grade: E7 6b ***
(Curbar Edge)

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