Rockfax Description
The hardest trad lead in the Peak with sport 8b climbing and that is with the marginal gear in place. Climb the face (poor gear) into Eye of the Tiger. Follow this through its crux, then move left and direct up the wall past a couple of breaks to easier ground. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The greatest challenge on the pinnacle is also likely the hardest limestone trad climb in the Peak District, graded E8 6c or 8a. Rising up all the best bits of Eye of the Tiger, it also incorporates an alternative technical start to that route and a punchy mono pocket direct finish finale. It has been climbed moving out leftward using the mono pocket but this avoids the true thrill of the fight for those with the requisite reach to go direct.
Tom Randall Sep/2015.
Ticklists
The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Hard Peak Limestone Trad
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tony-S | 30 Jul |
Show βeta
βeta: A trad route for sport climbers, but it is still a trad route (lest you forget why you’re here!). It was originally climbed without recourse to any fixed gear (video at https://youtu.be/nqr5_F52kHQ). A convenience bolt was placed in 2019 or 2020; this was followed by a couple of new pegs (one sika’d) and fixed wires and ropes. All of these, and the subsequently placed bolts, removed in 2024 as was presented and discussed openly at a BMC Peak Area meeting. Why any individual would seek to endanger access to these SSSI crags on land owned by the NT, with whom there is an agreed access arrangement, goodness only knows. The Dovedale pinnacles are specifically mentioned in the SSSI citation. One would have to query any anonymous individual’s grasp of reality if they sought to drill more metalwork into such cliffs; not to mention why they didn’t just choose to climb at one of the many local sport crags if they had such little regard for traditional climbing - all very odd. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A trad route for sport climbers, but it is still a trad route (lest you forget why you’re here!). It was originally climbed without recourse to any fixed gear (video at https://youtu.be/nqr5_F52kHQ). A convenience bolt was placed in 2019 or 2020; this was followed by a couple of new pegs (one sika’d) and fixed wires and ropes. All of these, and the subsequently placed bolts, removed in 2024 as was presented and discussed openly at a BMC Peak Area meeting. Why any individual would seek to endanger access to these SSSI crags on land owned by the NT, with whom there is an agreed access arrangement, goodness only knows. The Dovedale pinnacles are specifically mentioned in the SSSI citation. One would have to query any anonymous individual’s grasp of reality if they sought to drill more metalwork into such cliffs; not to mention why they didn’t just choose to climb at one of the many local sport crags if they had such little regard for traditional climbing - all very odd. |
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| Northern_Pie_eater | 9 Dec, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Tony S if full of... bends the narrative to suit his actions "It was originally climbed without recourse to any fixed gear" yea right, I can very much tell by watching Randalls video he's clipping the pegs. there's so much fixed Gera on this wall is unreal, and all over dove dale. What next chopping arch enemies, This bloke has no leg to stand on | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Tony S if full of... bends the narrative to suit his actions "It was originally climbed without recourse to any fixed gear" yea right, I can very much tell by watching Randalls video he's clipping the pegs. there's so much fixed Gera on this wall is unreal, and all over dove dale. What next chopping arch enemies, This bloke has no leg to stand on |
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