UKC

Restricted Access

The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

-  Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.

-  Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.

26m.

Rockfax Description
A desperate route which bisects the Adjudicator... traverse. Thin moves lead to the bulge. Pull through to good holds then climb up a scoop - poor small wires. A final dynamic moves remains. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The old bolted project (only the bolt sleeves remain) which starts four metres left of the toe of the buttress (Adjudicator Wall). Climb the thin slab with a right dogleg to make use of the shallow pockets, then power through the bulge to jugs (where Adjudicator Wall crosses). Continue fairly direct with a further testing sequence passing another bulge eventually arriving at some jugs left of some saplings on the wall. An easy scramble up leftward leads to a Yew tree belay at the top.

Joe Heeley 18/Sep/2016.

Ticklists

Hard Peak Limestone Trad

Feedback

User Date Notes
Peaklime_bagger 3 May Show βeta
βeta: E7 6c probably fair with a pad for the start (though prob at the harder end of E7). About 7c+ or, more helpfully, two f7A+ boulders with some easy ground in-between, however neither boulder is easy to unlock (both probably easier for the tall). A pad makes the start considerable safer; perhaps E8 without. Gear seems reasonable - use your own judgement! - though would be hard to find onsight. The original "dynamic move" beta for the top is unlikely to be the easiest sequence for most.
Show beta
βeta: E7 6c probably fair with a pad for the start (though prob at the harder end of E7). About 7c+ or, more helpfully, two f7A+ boulders with some easy ground in-between, however neither boulder is easy to unlock (both probably easier for the tall). A pad makes the start considerable safer; perhaps E8 without. Gear seems reasonable - use your own judgement! - though would be hard to find onsight. The original "dynamic move" beta for the top is unlikely to be the easiest sequence for most.

Logged Ascents

2 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Dovedale

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 4 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E9
Mid E9
Low E9
High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
Votes cast 8
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 8
Route of Interest
Return of the Jedi

Grade: E8 7a ***
(Upper Matlock Quarries)

Loading Notifications...