UKC Logbook - 'Eyes Wide Shut'

26m.

Rockfax Description
A desperate route which bisects the Adjudicator... traverse. Thin moves lead to the bulge. Pull through to good holds then climb up a scoop - poor small wires. A final dynamic moves remains. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The old bolted project (only the bolt sleeves remain) which starts four metres left of the toe of the buttress (Adjudicator Wall). Climb the thin slab with a right dogleg to make use of the shallow pockets, then power through the bulge to jugs (where Adjudicator Wall crosses). Continue fairly direct with a further testing sequence passing another bulge eventually arriving at some jugs left of some saplings on the wall. An easy scramble up leftward leads to a Yew tree belay at the top.

Joe Heeley 18/Sep/2016.

Ticklists

Hard Peak Limestone Trad

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User	Date		Notes
Peaklime_bagger	3 May	Show βeta βeta: E7 6c probably fair with a pad for the start (though prob at the harder end of E7). About 7c+ or, more helpfully, two f7A+ boulders with some easy ground in-between, however neither boulder is easy to unlock (both probably easier for the tall). A pad makes the start considerable safer; perhaps E8 without. Gear seems reasonable - use your own judgement! - though would be hard to find onsight. The original "dynamic move" beta for the top is unlikely to be the easiest sequence for most.
Show beta βeta: E7 6c probably fair with a pad for the start (though prob at the harder end of E7). About 7c+ or, more helpfully, two f7A+ boulders with some easy ground in-between, however neither boulder is easy to unlock (both probably easier for the tall). A pad makes the start considerable safer; perhaps E8 without. Gear seems reasonable - use your own judgement! - though would be hard to find onsight. The original "dynamic move" beta for the top is unlikely to be the easiest sequence for most.