UKC

Restricted Access

The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

-  Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.

-  Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.

28m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Climb with difficulty onto the lower end of the diagonal ramp, then follow it to a ledge (possible belay). Climb up grassy rock to the overlap that caps the wall, then follow this rightwards (thread) and escape out right onto the slab. © Rockfax

FA. Chris Calow, Mike Browell,, Dave Jones, John Codling 1978.

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Route of Interest
Moyer's Buttress

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Gardom's Edge)

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