Restricted Access
The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.
- Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.
Rockfax Description
Popular and excellent.
1) 5b, 15m. Bold moves reach the crack. Power up it until it fizzles out then take the flake to its end and swing left to the stance on Tennessee Waltz.
2) 5a, 25m. Climb the narrowing slab to a small overhang, pass the left-hand end of this then move right then back left to a groove which leads to a worrying exit onto the meadows above. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The cracked flake line provides some meaty handholds and some satisfying gear placements until an awkward move gains the first ledge (Peg). The superb slabby gangway leads up and right from here in an absorbingly exposed position until beneath a final capping roof. Pull around this and layback to victory. The top is grassy and hollow, take care, the belay is a tree.
Ticklists
An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chris the Tall | 13 Aug, 2007 |
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βeta: Top pitch is probably 5b for the tall :) Well maybe not, but you do get very bunched up Great route in a great position | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Top pitch is probably 5b for the tall :) Well maybe not, but you do get very bunched up Great route in a great position |
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| Neil Binns | 24 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: I agree with that | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I agree with that |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dovedale
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Dark Continent
Grade: E1 5c ***
(Stanage Popular)