UKC

32m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Brilliant climbing with lots surprising holds (10 maybe). Climb the short wall to a good ledge (possible belay). Step left and pull through a notch in the overhang onto the slab above. Continue up the face on good holds, trending slightly rightwards then making a reachy pull back left for the fine finish. © Rockfax

FA. Chris Calow 1978.

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Definitive *** Peak Lime

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User Date Notes
JonnyHendry 23 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: 60m rope isn't quite long enough to do the route and ab off the tree anchor in a single pitch (70m would be fine). Dodgy untying and downclimbing ensued.
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βeta: 60m rope isn't quite long enough to do the route and ab off the tree anchor in a single pitch (70m would be fine). Dodgy untying and downclimbing ensued.
dan66 5 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The 1st pitch is 4b, however the second is 5a through the headwall
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βeta: The 1st pitch is 4b, however the second is 5a through the headwall
climbersion 27 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: 1st pitch a path, not worth 4a let alone 4b. 2nd pitch has one well protected reachy 5a move, ace route go do!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 1st pitch a path, not worth 4a let alone 4b. 2nd pitch has one well protected reachy 5a move, ace route go do!
Albie 29 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I was told the top pitch was 5a - that's what i expected and that's what I got. A very worthwhile climb in a great location.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I was told the top pitch was 5a - that's what i expected and that's what I got. A very worthwhile climb in a great location.
EarlyBird 10 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: 2 pitches: 1st pitch, 4b; 2nd pitch, 5a...surely.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 2 pitches: 1st pitch, 4b; 2nd pitch, 5a...surely.
Dave Garnett 10 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: 4b?!! Maybe it depends on the line taken, but by the logical direct approach it has to be reachy 5a/b, though very safe.
Show beta
βeta: 4b?!! Maybe it depends on the line taken, but by the logical direct approach it has to be reachy 5a/b, though very safe.

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High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 84
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 67
Votes cast 81
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Martello Buttress

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stanage Popular)
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