UKC

32m.

Rockfax Description
Some good moves. Climb the short wall to a good ledge (possible belay). Climb through the bulge then trend right and back left, following the line of large and well-travelled holds. Either climb direct to ledges and a yew tree, or follow Ten Craters... with a 5a move. © Rockfax

FA. Nat Allen, D Carnell (1 point) l 1965.

Ticklists

Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs

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User Date Notes
Dr Matt 30 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Please see further discussion from myself in the Feedback section of the next route, Simeon Direct.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Please see further discussion from myself in the Feedback section of the next route, Simeon Direct.
Paul Sagar 21 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: A hold has broken off at the bulge where this route goes direct up in the Rockfax guide - now much, much harder than VS. There is an old peg and a good cam slot level with it but if you fall here you WILL hit the ledge below. Trust me, I did. Luckily enough rope stretch and momentum meant I avoided injury. Higher up, the route now climbs through the yew tree, which is very unpleasant indeed, as said tree is presumably much bigger than when the route was first climbed. Avoid.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A hold has broken off at the bulge where this route goes direct up in the Rockfax guide - now much, much harder than VS. There is an old peg and a good cam slot level with it but if you fall here you WILL hit the ledge below. Trust me, I did. Luckily enough rope stretch and momentum meant I avoided injury. Higher up, the route now climbs through the yew tree, which is very unpleasant indeed, as said tree is presumably much bigger than when the route was first climbed. Avoid.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 16
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Valkyrie

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Roaches Lower Tier)

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