UKC

Restricted Access

The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

-  Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.

-  Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.

36m.

Rockfax Description
From the base of the buttress, climb to, and through, the bulge, then trend rightwards up the crusty wall. Continue up the slabs to finish right by the Watchblock. Tree belay to the left. © Rockfax

FA. Nat Allen, D Carnell (1 pt) 1965 FFA. B Whittaker 1973.

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

16 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Dovedale

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 4 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 2
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Scoop Face

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Castle Naze)

Loading Notifications...