Loading Notifications...
20m.

Rockfax Description
A moorland classic; worth the hike up. High in the grade. Start in a green corner below the roof and trend left past the arete. Climb straight up the steep wall then trend strenuously rightwards through the bulges, keeping just above the lip of the overhang, to a tricky pull to ledges (possible stance). From here finish up and left via a final delicate slab or sneak off up Central Climb. © Rockfax

FA. Ted Howard et al. 1957.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, World Graded List, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Dovestone Tor, On Peak Rock, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, The Gritlist, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Duz Walker 14 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Wonderful steep juggy climbing, there are even ways to rest at every move. Loads of bumper gear, hugely enjoyable.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wonderful steep juggy climbing, there are even ways to rest at every move. Loads of bumper gear, hugely enjoyable.
DannyC 10 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: did this on wednesday, my first e1(definitely claiming it!). found the final slab the most difficult part although the overhang's v pumpy,without it the route would be hvs i think but the slab's unprotected and just tricky really, just making it low e1 for me(or indeed e0!). it doesnt seem particularly logical to the line though and is different to all of my old guides which show the route, then a hvs, escaping off to the right. anyway, fantastic, wonderful route and highly recommended.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: did this on wednesday, my first e1(definitely claiming it!). found the final slab the most difficult part although the overhang's v pumpy,without it the route would be hvs i think but the slab's unprotected and just tricky really, just making it low e1 for me(or indeed e0!). it doesnt seem particularly logical to the line though and is different to all of my old guides which show the route, then a hvs, escaping off to the right. anyway, fantastic, wonderful route and highly recommended.
Mark Davies PK 14 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Definately one of the all time best routes in the peak but only E0 5a at most!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Definately one of the all time best routes in the peak but only E0 5a at most!
Nick Smith - Climbers 18 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: A superb route. If you don't like unprotected slabs, miss out the top couple of metres for an HVS 5a/5b tick. An easy escape out left is possible.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A superb route. If you don't like unprotected slabs, miss out the top couple of metres for an HVS 5a/5b tick. An easy escape out left is possible.

Logged Ascents

393 users have logged this
87 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 68
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 64
Votes cast 93
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Jester Cracks

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Kinder Northern Edges)