Rockfax Description
A moorland classic. Start in a green and trend left past the arete. Climb straight up the steep wall then trend strenuously right through the bulges, keeping just above the lip of the overhang, to a tricky pull to ledges (possible stance). From here finish up and left via a final delicate slab or sneak off up Central Climb. © Rockfax
FA. Ted Howard et al. 1957.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , World Graded List , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Dovestone Tor , On Peak Rock , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , The Gritlist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 100 Best Routes on Grit , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Off The Radar 300, Every Crag in The Peak , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone , Peak Crack Trad
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Duz Walker | 14 Jun, 2007 |
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βeta: Wonderful steep juggy climbing, there are even ways to rest at every move. Loads of bumper gear, hugely enjoyable. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Wonderful steep juggy climbing, there are even ways to rest at every move. Loads of bumper gear, hugely enjoyable. |
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| The Pylon King | 14 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: Definately one of the all time best routes in the peak but only E0 5a at most! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Definately one of the all time best routes in the peak but only E0 5a at most! |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 18 Apr, 2003 |
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βeta: A superb route. If you don't like unprotected slabs, miss out the top couple of metres for an HVS 5a/5b tick. An easy escape out left is possible. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A superb route. If you don't like unprotected slabs, miss out the top couple of metres for an HVS 5a/5b tick. An easy escape out left is possible. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dovestone Tor
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Twisted Smile
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Kinder Northern Edges)