Rocktype Mica schist
Altitude 250m a.s.l
Scottish Winter Season - time for the suntrap crags in great nick! © Fiend
Vertical and steep Mica schist climbing, on many sharp edges. Some nice fingery routes in a very sunny location.
See http://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Dunira for topo and access info.
Guide available on Scottishclimb.com.
The 7aMax map misses off most of the roads and tracks, but the crag is fairly visible from parts of the approach. Follow the upper track past Dunira Farm, then the left edge outside a deer-fenced field to rejoin the track after it loops. Follow the track in the forest and keep very steeply left uphill until the track ends, then a faint trail over the stream and through boulders to the crag.
A large, active raven nest is currently positioned right in the middle of the crag, effectively blocking access to the vast majority of the routes. Went up yesterday (28/04) with the intention of climbing, but couldn't see a way to climb any of the routes without disturbing/stressing the ravens.
Parking on the triangle of grass as suggested in the guidebook would seem to be not permitted. Parked there yesterday and having then walked all the way to the crag we were approached by the Dunira estate manager (who drove in a 4x4 up to the crag) and asked to move our cars. On explaining the information we had he said we needed to park on the main road car park and walk in from there. The manager was very pleasant and in no way confrontational.
Lots of large fallen trees across upper path making path impassable. Had to weave through trees and over downed fence to make it up to the stream. Allow extra time to do this and wear appropriate footwear.
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