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20/03/2025 - The raven nest mentioned below is active once again. Avoid all climbs in the centre of the crag as to not disturb the nest.

A large, active raven nest is currently positioned right in the middle of the crag, effectively blocking access to the vast majority of the routes. Went up yesterday (28/04) with the intention of climbing, but couldn't see a way to climb any of the routes without disturbing/stressing the ravens.

Parking on the triangle of grass as suggested in the guidebook would seem to be not permitted. Parked there yesterday and having then walked all the way to the crag we were approached by the Dunira estate manager (who drove in a 4x4 up to the crag) and asked to move our cars. On explaining the information we had he said we needed to park on the main road car park and walk in from there. The manager was very pleasant and in no way confrontational. 

On the edge of all things great! Climb the arete direct to a tantalising finish and view to savour.

Scott Muir 2004.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Lykul 20 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Missing a bolt on the crux? Clear signs one used to be there but is now gone. Now means you have one bolt 1.5m below the crux and 2m above the crux to the top bolts. A fall on the crux would be nasty due to the big sharp ledge.
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βeta: Missing a bolt on the crux? Clear signs one used to be there but is now gone. Now means you have one bolt 1.5m below the crux and 2m above the crux to the top bolts. A fall on the crux would be nasty due to the big sharp ledge.
PhilMW 24 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Last bolt to anchor is a bit run out to make a spicy finish
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βeta: Last bolt to anchor is a bit run out to make a spicy finish
murdo09 26 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Route has a very dangerous move before the top bolts, falling would cause severe injury. Big commitment for final move. Definitely harder than 4c.
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βeta: Route has a very dangerous move before the top bolts, falling would cause severe injury. Big commitment for final move. Definitely harder than 4c.
Woodman 12 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: I was climbing this route yesterday (11/04/21) and found that the top bolt is missing which gives quite a large gap where you climbing relatively unprotected to the anchor - this is particularly dangerous as it is a 4c with some substantial ledges to stand on, therefore you could fall down onto these and get injured. I noticed that there used to be old bolts here which have since been removed and replaced, but that this last one has been missed. It is slightly off to the right of the route. I think it is important to get it replaced for safety and for the sake of making new climbers feel more comfortable (especially as no one has been getting the chance to practice in indoor gyms).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I was climbing this route yesterday (11/04/21) and found that the top bolt is missing which gives quite a large gap where you climbing relatively unprotected to the anchor - this is particularly dangerous as it is a 4c with some substantial ledges to stand on, therefore you could fall down onto these and get injured. I noticed that there used to be old bolts here which have since been removed and replaced, but that this last one has been missed. It is slightly off to the right of the route. I think it is important to get it replaced for safety and for the sake of making new climbers feel more comfortable (especially as no one has been getting the chance to practice in indoor gyms).

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Votes cast 13
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