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Climbs 125
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 150m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Tom pulling through the crux of High Performance. © mshorter

Crag features

Upper Cave Crag is an overhanging crag that offers some superb, steep routes. Recommended: Rat Race E4, Marlina 7c.


25.07.09 The missing bolts have been replaced on all routes with the exception of Ching, the very eliminate 8a.

Also accessed from the same car park as Upper Cave Crag are Lover's Leap, Even Lower Cave Crag and Lower Cave Crag. For logbook purposes I have included routes for these crags as well, in the order they appear in the SMC guidebook.

Approach notes

The crags are best accessed from the Forestry Commission car park at NO023437, reached off the A923 Dunkeld to Blairgowrie road. Felling operations may require detours from the approach routes given in the guidebook.

Can also be accessed as for Craig a Barns and then follow a complex path through the woods.

Beware! There is a very loose and large block directly to the right of the lower off of the 7a+ "baled out". If you take the more direct (and probably the official) finish you will avoid it but it's very close and tempting if you head right at the top.
Spanish Jack - 28/Sep/19
Actually the original climbs directly from the ring bolt (old bolt 2) to bolt 4 Climbing from 3 to 4 going right rather than up left and back right is easier in some peoples opinion so does not make any difference to grade.
sheppy - 22/May/14
Original goes more direct, moving rightwards and up, from the 3rd to 4th bolts, using the crystally pockets & crimps & a big reach to gain the jug below the 4th bolt. The other 7b+ variant (ie non-original) loops out to the left from the big undercling at the 3rd bolt on larger holds, but takes longer to get to the next clip. FWIW, I don't reckon there's much difference in difficulty either way, the crux is still to come at the finish!
Fraser - 01/May/11
What is the differance between Marlina and Marlina Original? I now don't know which one I have done. Will be dissapointed if I find out I have not climbed a 7c.
Dangerous Dave - 20/Apr/11
Please note the grades for Marlina and Marlina original are the wrong way round
sheppy - 11/Jan/11
Bolts are all back in as of 25.07.09
sheppy - 30/Jul/09
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Climbs at this crag

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Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Ian Jones and Martin McKenna - UKC