Climbs 10
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 84m a.s.l
Faces SE

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Debbie Roberts on The Purple Ladies Versus Godzilla (6a) at Dyserth Castle Slab. © Mark Glaister

Crag features

Castle Quarry Slab is an attractive face of quarried limestone, once home to a few scary early '80s trad routes and now hosting a clutch of smeary sport routes. This provides a welcome change from the normal limestone steepness, giving delicate friction routes of a significant length.

The crag is fairly sheltered and the slab faces south so it can be a fine place to climb on a cool winter's day, conversely the rock will feel rather slippery under summer sun.

Approach notes

From the National Trust car park below Craig Fawr, cross the road and start to head eastwards on the narrow road. After just a few metres, turn right downhill on another narrow road, signed '5T Just for Access'. After about 100m, cross a stile on the right onto a public footpath; follow this downhill for about 150m crossing three stiles, then take the right fork into the old quarry. The climbs are found on the left.

Nice little crag to spend an hour or two at, quite enjoyable climbing but the bolting (in my opinion) could be improved, as there are some big run outs between bolts especially low down on a few of the routes
GEd_83 - 15/Aug/19
Ref the loose bolt on Tegengle that looks like it has been replaced. The krab looks rusted but the mailon is good so threaded fine to descend off. Struggled finding the path off the main track with the leaf cover so spent a while walking around up near the other slab! For future ref the GR is SJ 06010 79809. Little bit of loose rock but nothing major and a few bits of glass but on the floor rather than the crag. Happy climbing, great little crag!
SebCa - 20/Nov/18
Advise wearing helmet at all times. Experienced a reasonable flake which fell off Isabella Rose, after my partner had already loaded with weight, but during his down climb. Also some small rocks showering us from above, most likely active birdlife above. Great sheltered venue and great Sun trap July
Rotorslap - 19/Jul/15
Just to let everyone know, we were here today and there's a lot of broken glass half way up 36 bolts to happiness on the ledges. We tried to remove as much as we could but without a brush couldn't get it all.
nb148 - 13/Jul/14
Hi Otis, they are not siezed, but glued closed to discourage theft
michael burrows - 22/May/14
May 2014: lower off carabiner & maillon at top of Tegengle/Purple ladies have seized. Perfectly safe, but needs threading, rather than clipping.
Otis - 21/May/14
Climbed here last weekend, found the second to last bolt before the lower off on Tegengle to be loose. Be careful!
AlunR - 03/Nov/12
It's worth wearing a helmet here as even the rope dragging over the rock dislodges quite an amount of material.
Bob - 05/Mar/12
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Climbs at this crag

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