Magnificent climbing and ambience combine to give one of the finest VSs around. Although the cliff as a whole is very dirty, the rock quality and climbing on the route is excellent, although dry conditions are not a given, even in summer. Start at a well-worn belay ledge next to a narrow rib.
1) 17m. Ascend the narrow rib and move right to a good ledge and belay.
2) 4c, 28m. A sustained pitch. Move up a groove and then go rightwards to the start of a narrowing ramp. Go left along the ramp and make a precarious move to a good ledge and spike. Move right and up again before a few balancy moves left gain a good right-leading juggy flake. Pull along the flake to a good ledge and belays.
3) 4c, 12m. Make bouldery moves to gain a position where a step right reaches a big grass ledge. Climb easily to the grassy terrace and belay.
4) 4a, 23m. Traverse the grassy terrace and make a tricky step across a slim slab to a tiny tree. Move left and up to a rock ledge and a difficult-to-arrange belay on nuts, cams and a small spike.
5) 4c, 12m. Move up left to a small spike runner (thin tape) and go a further 3m before heading back right to better holds and easier moves to the right to gain an awkward stance.
6) 4b, 13m. Make an exposed traverse right to a corner. Climb the corner to a large ledge below an impressive corner and wide crack.
7) 4b, 18m. Climb the corner-crack, and at its top move right to a ledge and belay.
8) 8m. Easy ground leads to the top. © Rockfax
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