UKC

Rockfax Description
60m. An impressive, classic route, low in its grade.
1. 20m 5b Start at the base of the wall and climb the line up into a small hanging corner and so up to belay ledges on the left.
2. 25m 6a Traverse right and gain a standing position on the big block at the base of the wall. Climb straight up to a handrail, which permits moves out right. Climb the bulging section up into the crack-line where the climbing is less strenuous. Move up the crack and gain a smooth triangular niche from the left. Climb over the bulge and up a small corner (crux) to a broken ledge on the right (cam). Step back above the corner and climb up left to peg belays in a shallow recess.
3. 15m 5b Step left from the recess and climb the wall above, using a superb pocket to reach the left end of a break. Traverse this rightwards for 6m to join Death Cap on the undercut arĂȘte just below the top bulge. Climb the bulge and wall to the top.
FA R.Smith, D.Dinwoodie, 1982 © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Classic

Ticklists

100 Aberdeen North East Classics! , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , North East Outcrops - 3 and 4 star routes , Sevs Power list of Justice , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , RGU Shelterstone , The Great Sea Cliffs of Scotland

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

49 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Earnsheugh

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 13 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 12
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Ground Up
Redpoint
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Procyon

Grade: E5 6b ***
(South Cove)

Loading Notifications...