Rockfax Description
60m. An impressive, classic route, low in its grade.
1. 20m 5b Start at the base of the wall and climb the line up into a small hanging corner and so up to belay ledges on the left.
2. 25m 6a Traverse right and gain a standing position on the big block at the base of the wall. Climb straight up to a handrail, which permits moves out right. Climb the bulging section up into the crack-line where the climbing is less strenuous. Move up the crack and gain a smooth triangular niche from the left. Climb over the bulge and up a small corner (crux) to a broken ledge on the right (cam). Step back above the corner and climb up left to peg belays in a shallow recess.
3. 15m 5b Step left from the recess and climb the wall above, using a superb pocket to reach the left end of a break. Traverse this rightwards for 6m to join Death Cap on the undercut arĂȘte just below the top bulge. Climb the bulge and wall to the top.
FA R.Smith, D.Dinwoodie, 1982 © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Classic
100 Aberdeen North East Classics! , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , North East Outcrops - 3 and 4 star routes , Sevs Power list of Justice , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , RGU Shelterstone , The Great Sea Cliffs of Scotland
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Grade: E5 6b ***
(South Cove)