UKC

500m, 18 pitches. As described in the Plaisir West guide, (it is the same route as 'North East Face Classic Route' in the Bernese Oberland).
4c, 5b (A0 5c), 5b (A0 5c+), 4b, 5b (A0 5c+), 4c, 4a, 4c, 3b, 5a, 5b (A0 5c+), 2b-3c scramble, 4a, _, 3b, 2b

Kingspitze is a classic climb of the Engelhörner, it must have been an epic in 1937. The stances are well bolted and most pitches have 2 or 3 bolts, but the climb is not to be underestimated. It is 700m of climbing up vertical limestone. Although never really hard (F5c+ free) experience in route finding, especially for the descent, is necessary if it is to be completed in good time. The 150m of grade 3 scrambling to the first stance has a couple of belay spots and is best done "Alpine style" with a rope, unless you are familiar with the route.

The summit is fantastic, sitting on top of a 500m needle, and well worth the effort.

Hermann Steuri mit Gefahrten 1937.

Ticklists

Extreme Alpine Rock , Grossen and Rébuffat's Bernese Oberland: The 100 Most Beautiful Tours

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Voting
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tim and Struppi

Grade: 5c ***
(Räterichsboden)

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