500m, 18 pitches. As described in the Plaisir West guide, (it is the same route as 'North East Face Classic Route' in the Bernese Oberland).
4c, 5b (A0 5c), 5b (A0 5c+), 4b, 5b (A0 5c+), 4c, 4a, 4c, 3b, 5a, 5b (A0 5c+), 2b-3c scramble, 4a, _, 3b, 2b

Kingspitze is a classic climb of the Engelhörner, it must have been an epic in 1937. The stances are well bolted and most pitches have 2 or 3 bolts, but the climb is not to be underestimated. It is 700m of climbing up vertical limestone. Although never really hard (F5c+ free) experience in route finding, especially for the descent, is necessary if it is to be completed in good time. The 150m of grade 3 scrambling to the first stance has a couple of belay spots and is best done "Alpine style" with a rope, unless you are familiar with the route.

The summit is fantastic, sitting on top of a 500m needle, and well worth the effort.

Hermann Steuri mit Gefahrten 1937.


Extreme Alpine Rock , Grossen and Rébuffat's Bernese Oberland: The 100 Most Beautiful Tours


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High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tim and Struppi

Grade: 5c ***

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