II, 250m. The most recent route and one of the best.
1) 6b. Climb the smeary slab directly below the rounded layback crack of the second pitch.
2) 6a+. Move right off the belay and climb the grassy wide layback crack until a weakness on the slab on the right gives access to an arête 3m right of the crack. This is followed more easily to a belay.
3) 6b+. Go up the corner via some physical moves for 6m then step right around a blunt arête and continue up a slab.
4) 6a+. Climb the right-leaning corner above the belay then step left onto a rounded arête and follow this to a grassy ledge.
5) 6a+. Climb the corner right of the belay and continue up broken ground to reach a hanging slabby arête. Go up the left-hand side of this, via some amazing moves, to a small ledge.
6) 6b. Follow the stunning crack leftwards to reach the square-cut arête. Follow the arête, smearing with your feet, with a large drop to your left. The pick of the pitches and a great place to get a photo of your second.
7) 5c. A short steep pitch heads up and right via cracks and thrutchy ledges to gain a large boulder on a grassy ledge.
8) Scramble up grassy broken ground to reach the final pitch.
9) 5a. Drift right up a slab then come back left to finish, there are several bolted lines on this upper dome, all lead to the same summit. © Rockfax
FA. M.Piola, V.Sprungli 28.7.2005 28/Jul/2005.
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