9 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 250m. The most recent route and one of the best.
1) 6b. Climb the smeary slab directly below the rounded layback crack of the second pitch.
2) 6a+. Move right off the belay and climb the grassy wide layback crack until a weakness on the slab on the right gives access to an arête 3m right of the crack. This is followed more easily to a belay.
3) 6b+. Go up the corner via some physical moves for 6m then step right around a blunt arête and continue up a slab.
4) 6a+. Climb the right-leaning corner above the belay then step left onto a rounded arête and follow this to a grassy ledge.
5) 6a+. Climb the corner right of the belay and continue up broken ground to reach a hanging slabby arête. Go up the left-hand side of this, via some amazing moves, to a small ledge.
6) 6b. Follow the stunning crack leftwards to reach the square-cut arête. Follow the arête, smearing with your feet, with a large drop to your left. The pick of the pitches and a great place to get a photo of your second.
7) 5c. A short steep pitch heads up and right via cracks and thrutchy ledges to gain a large boulder on a grassy ledge.
8) Scramble up grassy broken ground to reach the final pitch.
9) 5a. Drift right up a slab then come back left to finish, there are several bolted lines on this upper dome, all lead to the same summit. © Rockfax

FA. M.Piola, V.Sprungli 28.7.2005 28/Jul/2005.


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Route of Interest
Walker Spur

Grade: ED1 6a ***
(Grandes Jorasses)

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