Rockfax Description
II, 250m. The classic of the crag with incredibly varied climbing.
1) 6a. Climb the right-hand of two left-leaning cracks/corners up a slab. The left-hand one can also be climbed at 6a+.
2) 6a. Go straight up the steep and satisfying flake and crack system directly above the belay.
3) 6a+. Cross the grassy ledge behind the belay then climb a short but tough crack. Follow broken ground to the foot of a steep slab.
4) 6a. Climb the slab and move left near the top before coming back to a grassy belay at the foot of a huge corner.
5) 6a+. Step right and go up to a small roof. Go through this and climb the superb crack leading up from its right-hand edge.
6) 5c. Head up the slab straight above the belay.
7) 5b. Climb the cracked slab to the foot of the summit block.
8) 5c. One final superb slab pitch takes you onto the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Abseil in from the top of the climb rather than approaching straight from the Glacier. Approach to the left of the Contes is completely falling down and very dangerous. As long as you Abseil in from the refuge, the granite is some of the best in the area. Great half day route option.
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Grade: TD+ 6b ***
(Aiguilles Rouges)