II, 330m. A true Envers classic with superb climbing throughout. The route starts pretty much at the lowest point on the face, just to the left of a series of small horizontal overlaps. There are more bolted belays than described here so the pitches can be broken up differently.1) 6a. Follow a thin slab and then a thin flake to a small notch.2) 5c. Go straight up for a couple of metres then traverse right, under a small roof, and follow a corner up to easy ground which leads left to a belay.3) 5c. Go up the amazing layback crack which leads left to a belay in a notch.4) 5b. Head rightwards up the slab.5) 6a. Climb the corner on the right and make a technical traverse left to a vertical crack. This leads to a hanging belay.6) 6a+. Step left off the belay and climb the technical finger-crack to reach a slab. Follow this left to a corner which leads to a stance under a roof.7) 5c. Follow the superb slab on the right then a short corner.8) 5b. Go left up the flake-crack then a series of easy corners.9) 4b. Scramble up easily to a notch.10) 6a+. Move left and climb the stunning slab (protected by three bolts) to reach a corner on the right. Climb this to reach the Tour Rouge summit ridge.11) 4c. Climb easily up the ridge to just below the summit. The route officially ends here but tagging the summit is easy enough. © Rockfax
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Grade: TD+ 6b ***
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