II, 370m. A great route that goes all the way to the summit without taking in any really tough climbing. The first six pitches are often climbed on their own (the route is simply called Guy-Anne up to this point) and this offers an excellent short day.
1) 5c. A short pitch up a left-leaning ramp.
2) 5c. Head up and right onto a large ledge.
3) 6a+. A steep crack with plenty of gear. The crux move is a bolt-protected slabby move left.
4) 6a+. Follow a crack leftwards for 20m and then another crack straight up for another 20m.
5) 5c. It is possible to go either left (5c, the traditional way) or right at 5b if you fancy something easier after two tough pitches.
6) 6a. A series of cracks and slabs. Abseil off here for the shorter version.
7) 6a. More of the same, just marginally longer.
8) 6a. Mainly steady climbing but with one hard crack move.
9) 5c. Head slightly right and then come back left.
10) 6a+. Some superb slabby climbing up some amazing doorknob-type holds.
11) 6a+. A short corner then by more superb, featured slabs.
12) 6a. Climb a crack then traverse left on a slab, passing a bolt en route, to another crack. Head up this and then follow another slab left to the summit of the left-hand Pointe. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A more sustained and consistent version of Guy-Anne. It has about 5 different sections from the original.
Route description can be found in Piola's 'Envers des Aiguilles' book (available in English).
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents