320m, 17 pitches.

Rockfax Description
III, 320m. The most popular route on the peak but still a pretty 'full on' day. Don't underestimate the seriousness of climbing this just because of the (relatively) amenable grades. Start by climbing the snow couloir and then climbing for 80 - 100m (the exact line taken and distance covered will depend on snow cover) up grade 3/4 rocky ground to the first belay, which is beneath a short slab. There are various bits of tat and belays all over the easy ground, any combination of which can be used for abseiling on the descent. The bergschrund can be big here especially late in the season.
1) 5c, 25m. Climb the slab via two parallel cracks to a large belay ledge beneath the huge and distinctive corner system that defines the next few pitches.
2) 6a+, 30m. Instead of following the deep chimney on the right, step left and climb the excellent crack up the wall.
3) 5b, 35m. Follow the corner to a belay on the left.
4) 5b, 35m. Continue up the corner and belay above where it widens.
5) 6a, 40m. Climb steep cracks just left of the ridge crest before coming back to a belay on the right.
6) 6a+, 20m. Fight your way up the slippery, difficult hand-crack to the right of the crest before coming back left to a belay.
7) 6b, 30m. Step right and climb the roof crack above (using aid if needs be!) to reach a small ledge under a slab with a stunning view and amazing ambience.
8) 6a+, 35m. Climb the slab, passing a couple of bolts on the way, to lower angled ground.
9) 4a, 40m. This section is often snowy so the exact line is less important than avoiding the snow! Climb slabs and cracks to below the final summit tower.
10) 4a, 35m. Continue up slabs and cracks to the wonderful summit.
Descent - The best descent is by abseil down the a combination of the belays of Voyage selon Gulliver and a neighbouring (undescribed) line called L'Élixir d'Astaroth. It takes a direct line and has well-equipped belays which lead you back to the end of pitch 4 of the Swiss Route, from where it is possible to descend via the line of ascent. 2 x 50m ropes are necessary for the abseil lines. The peak is covered in many other routes so there are belays everywhere. Try to stick to a line when descending in order to avoid getting a rope stuck or abseiling into overhanging terrain. It is also possible to abseil down O Sole Mio, an undescribed route to the left of the Swiss Route. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
TD 300+ (plus 3 or 4 pitches if the bergshrund is open). Approx 8-10 hrs including descent. Flawless granite tower block at the heart of the vallee blanch in Cirque Maudit.

Most bivi benieth the route before/after. Begin far up the gully to the LH side, climbing broken ground to a prominent corner. Ascend the corner for 120m. come onto the face to climb laybacks (pegs) free at E1 ish to reach a the aid pitch traversing the roof to the right and upwards F6c free. Climb easier ground to reach the summit (3800m) in around 120m.

Good topos can be found here: http://www.summitpost.org/b-grand-capucin-b/349770
and here: http://www.planetmountain.com/english/rock/routes/itineraries/scheda.php?lang=eng&id_tipologia=38&comefrom=search&id_itinerario=381&gruppo=&cima=&nome

Claude Asper, Marcel Bron, Mario Grossi and Marcel Morel 26/Jul/1956

Hidden 02/Sep/16 AltLd
Hidden 09/Jul/16 AltLd
QuentinSu 04/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Duncan Campbell 03/Jul/16 AltLd

The bottom of this into the top of O Sole Mio. Amazing day out.

with Bubbles
Hidden 03/Jul/16 AltLd
Rhys Deane ?/Jul/16 AltLd dog

Climbed free until final few pitches where we were met with soaking crack so resorted to pulling on gear. Exhausting!

with Sam Russel
alexm198 30/Aug/15 AltLd

Aided the crux 6b/A1 - in awe of Ian and Misha who managed to do it free at 7b(?). Insane. The grades on this seemed mega stiff compared to elsewhere in the massif, but who knows.

with Misha Nepogodiev, Ian Cooper
Misha 30/Aug/15 AltLd

A perfect route! Walked in in the afternoon to bivvy underneath the face. Up at 4.30am (or at least that's when the alarm went off), started the minimal walk in at 6.30. Rimaye impassable except on the right, leading to Flagrant Delire. Ian went to that and said there was a good ledge with a bolted belay, so Alex and I seconded in big boots (tricky) to leave our stuff there as there was no ledge at the start of the rock. Two full length easy pitches moving quickly got us to a nice crack pitch which I led to a ledge at the start of the chimney. Also led the first pitch up the corner (skipped a belay to do a 45-50m pitch). The start is actually a fantastic E1 crack up the face left of the corner. The second half was nice HVS climbing easing to about V Diff - VS terrain, all very enjoyable. Ian did the next pitch, again skipping a belay, more beautiful V Diff to VS climbing. I led the corner crack up the arête to a hanging belay. Should have actually carried on up the crack above to the next hanging belay, which is below the crux/aid pitch. Ian did that instead as we thought it was the start of the crux pitch. A sandbag at 5+, we all though it was a decent E1. Slightly less enjoyable due to random stomach cramps but fortunately they soon went away. Ian did a great job on the crux, falling off after being lured into a dead end by following the obvious crack up after the roof traverse - you actually need to move right to another crack just after getting established in the first crack above the roof. I slipped off on the initial traverse right under the roof on a long move sideways to a crack (took a swing and pulled back up some tat). Ian gave me the beta to move right but it looked desperate so I carried on up the first crack hoping to find a way on second but it really blanks out so took another swing and finished up the correct crack. Alex aided it, which looked hard. I took over thinking the next pitch was 4+ though it looked harder and so it was! Actually it was the second half of the crux pitch. Had to pull on gear twice to get past trad 6b moves as it was no place to mess around. Still solid E2 for the bits I did free. Alex then did two easier pitches to the top. What a cool summit! Great views as well. Eight and a half hours from the start of the rock, not too bad in a three. Abbed down a random line in about 10 abs, just over two hours. Bivvied again as was intended. All went to plan, except the following day didn't get up early enough to do the Contamine on the Lachenal on the way back so just did the Cosmiques instead.

with Alex, Ian C
i_a_coops 30/Aug/15 AltLd
with Misha
zcsharp 27/Aug/15 Lead dnf

Totally underestimated the appoarch to the route, plus getting to the base of it was difficult because of how open the begshurd was this year. But the rock looks amazing, another year.

steve_gibbs 27/Aug/15 AltLd dnf
saaruli 21/Aug/15 AltLd
with Erik
Hidden 21/Aug/15 AltLd
Tadams ?/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Mark Challoner
Hidden 04/Sep/14 AltLd
simondunf 04/Sep/14 AltLd

saw only 1 other party on the cap, awesome summit

with caspar
McGuinness 06/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Awesome. Swiss route into O Sole Mio finish. 6a crack pitch was soaking as was one of the last few easy pitches.

with Mike
Hidden ?/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
stanleynkk 16/Jul/14 AltLd
with Thomas
Hidden 04/Sep/13 AltLd dnf
Kris ?/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
nickdonohue ?/Sep/13 AltLd

Care needed in approach gully - best get out of it before first sunlight. Fantastic climbing on majority of route; some tough pulling (but A0) on insitu pegs on upper pitches.

with Ian Bryant
Petar Samkov 17/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Iliqn Kinov Ivo Ninov
Sheakinstevens 12/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Route was primarily Swiss Direct. Fifth pitch to the good shoulder was tricky for the lead owing to snow and melt-water. Had to veer off course on upper pitches owing to ice in upper cracks. Last pitches were possibly the hardest, whatever it was we ended up on. Had some loose rock early on. Not a sinner for miles, whole of the Grand Capucin to ourselves. All pitches led by Ramiro Villanueva.

with Ramiro Villanueva
jcw ??/2013 -
Hidden 21/Aug/12 AltLd
Hidden 21/Aug/12 AltLd
Wils 18/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Aided 6b pitch which felt hard for the grade

Ollie B 11/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Lift to Lift. Avoided the aid pitch and finished up O Sole Mio. Great combination and a great day!

with T.Livinstone
Tom Livingstone 11/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Lift to lift from Midi = grand vitesse! Climbed the top 3rd of O Sole Mio which is mega

guy757 03/Aug/12 AltLd
cbeard 09/Jul/12 AltLd dnf

My favorite route of the trip - the 1980s French guidebook photocopy given to us at the Chamonix guides office was near to useless. We simul-climbed the first few pitches with me leading and routefinding, then pitched from the 6a+ onward, turning back at the belle terrase as snow started to fall. Be warned, the guidebook underestimates the grade! I'd put the 6a+ pitch at b+ at least! both of us fell at the upper of it's two cruxes. Bolted belays with chains or rope connectors and lowering rings allow for a quick escape. 30m spacing allows two parties on 60m half ropes to lower from alternate stations.

with John Bennetts
roberto18 15/Sep/11 AltLd

A great route and harder than I excepted, abseiled down in the dark, and including walk ins a 20hr day.

with Sasha Doyle, Tom Nickols
danJBA 14/Sep/11 AltLd dnf

Route finding difficulties

conorcussell 20/Aug/11 AltLd dnf

Abbed off before aid pitch - just too knackered.

Hidden 10/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
stevepotter 02/Aug/11 -
with Matt
sam820 02/Aug/11 AltLd

Swinging leads: Matt led 6a pitch. I aided through the roof. Amazing experience!

with Matt Keyse
Hidden 29/Jul/11 -
stratfol 11/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

crowded, up to five teams on a stance, best climbed outside of peak season. fantastic route, roof pitch not 6b, closer to 7a! (used aid).

with Sergey Gitlin
Hidden 29/Jun/11 AltLd dnf
liamo333 ??/2011 -

Description above is incorrect. Stunning route, very crowded, snow melting off ledges made things very wet. Cold for July.

stuart34 20/Aug/10 AltLd dnf

Didn't climb last 3 pitches due to weather turning, Kim led difficulties.

with Kim Ladiges
Hidden ?/Jul/10 AltLd dnf
Hidden 06/Sep/09 AltLd
Hidden 05/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
andyinglis 29/Jul/09 AltLd

Great route.....

with neil adams
Neil Adams 29/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/07 -
josephwilliams ?/Jun/07 -
Hidden ?/Jul/06 AltLd
Hidden ?/Sep/05 AltLd
Jan.Hrb ??/2004 AltLd
with Petr D.
marcoleptic ?/Jul/03 AltLd O/S

Awesome route, incredible exposure, Late start Aided roof & watched sunset from summit. Abseiled down in dark. Great fun.

with Darryl
Hidden 31/Jul/96 Lead O/S
NeilGriffiths ?/Aug/95 -
with Duncan, Paul
Robmwatt ?/Jul/91 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/89 Lead
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