250m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 250m. Slightly trickier than Les contes de la folie ordinaiare and a sustained route - this ought to see a little more traffic.
1) 6a+. Go straight up for 5m then follow an excellent ramp out left across a slab and up to a belay beneath a wide corner.
2) 6a+. Step right off the belay and climb a smaller corner before moving out right to a stance just above and left of a deep niche.
3) 6a. Follow a crack system left across a slab.
4) 6a. Climb up to the right of a blunt arĂȘte then step left and head up to a grassy belay ledge beneath a wide chimney.
5) 6a. Go up for 5m then cross underneath the chimney and continue up to a spacious stance.
6) 6a. Move right to avoid a small overlap then cross back left above it and go straight up to the foot of a clean slab.
7) 5c. Head directly up the slab.
8) 6a. Cross broken ground and then climb the wall just to the left of the summit tower's right-hand edge. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Abseil from top. 8 pitches of wonderful granite which is slightly more taxing than the ordinary route

Michel Piola.


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Route of Interest

Grade: TD+ 6b+ ***
(Mont Blanc du Tacul)

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