II, 450m. Another justly famous route which picks the best rock of the two Pointes des Nantillons. The upper section feels wonderfully 'out there' and remote. 1) 6a+. As for Bienvenue au Georges V.2) 6b+. Step right off the belay and climb up the crest of a pillar to a large ledge below a beautiful crack.3) 6a+. Follow the finger-crack for 10m, then go straight up before stepping right to belay.4) 5c. Move right and follow the leaning corner to a ledge.5) 6a. A short slab followed by a brief corner.6) 6a. Climb cracks to an exposed, semi-hanging belay.7) 6a+. A short but stunning pitch up a crack system to the right of a corner. The belay is at the left-hand end of a long ledge.8) 4b. Cross the ledge easily to a single bolt belay.9) 5b. Go straight up the crack system above the belay before drifting up and left up another series of cracks.10) 6a. Start just to the right of the belay then follow cracks left before a slab (with two bolts on it) leads back right.11) 6a. Climb a short crack then go up a left-leaning ramp for 5m to a slab with two bolts. Climb this to a belay on the left.12) 6b. A couple of moves on a slab lead to a steep corner/chimney which gets harder the higher you go. Exit rightwards.13) 6a+. Climb cracks and then turn a small overhang on the right to reach a belay right on the crest of a pillar.14) 6a+. Follow the superb slab past three bolts to the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
6b+ E2, 6a+ obligatory. (Note the guidebook says 5c obligatory but then says on pitch 2 it is 6b+ free or 6a+ A1...)
Euro Alpine Rock
Please Login to view more details on the logged
Grade: ED1 ***
Feedback comments are intended to give extra information about a route which may be helpful to other climbers.
This can include 'βeta' which is crucial information about the route which may be how to do a move, or tips about
holds or gear.
If you don't want to see βeta then select 'Always Hide βeta' and the comments will be hidden for you. You can
set this in your User Options.
If you read a comment that you think contains crucial βeta then you can mark it as 'βeta' using the flag on
If you see something incorrectly marked as βeta, you can hide it by clicking on the word 'βeta:' on the
You can also copy any of your previous personal ascent comments to Public Feedback if they contain useful general
They can be edited before posting to remove
personal content if required.