II, 450m. Another justly famous route which picks the best rock of the two Pointes des Nantillons. The upper section feels wonderfully 'out there' and remote.
1) 6a+. As for Bienvenue au Georges V.
2) 6b+. Step right off the belay and climb up the crest of a pillar to a large ledge below a beautiful crack.
3) 6a+. Follow the finger-crack for 10m, then go straight up before stepping right to belay.
4) 5c. Move right and follow the leaning corner to a ledge.
5) 6a. A short slab followed by a brief corner.
6) 6a. Climb cracks to an exposed, semi-hanging belay.
7) 6a+. A short but stunning pitch up a crack system to the right of a corner. The belay is at the left-hand end of a long ledge.
8) 4b. Cross the ledge easily to a single bolt belay.
9) 5b. Go straight up the crack system above the belay before drifting up and left up another series of cracks.
10) 6a. Start just to the right of the belay then follow cracks left before a slab (with two bolts on it) leads back right.
11) 6a. Climb a short crack then go up a left-leaning ramp for 5m to a slab with two bolts. Climb this to a belay on the left.
12) 6b. A couple of moves on a slab lead to a steep corner/chimney which gets harder the higher you go. Exit rightwards.
13) 6a+. Climb cracks and then turn a small overhang on the right to reach a belay right on the crest of a pillar.
14) 6a+. Follow the superb slab past three bolts to the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
6b+ E2, 6a+ obligatory. (Note the guidebook says 5c obligatory but then says on pitch 2 it is 6b+ free or 6a+ A1...)
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