Rockfax Description
An amazing route - a tough E5 or easy E6, you decide! Start just below and left of the high flying arete that makes the dramatic climax of this route. Move up and left to a ledge and take the hanging flake on the right up the steep wall. Enter the groove above, climb past a thread and continue on to a small niche. Bridge up the groove above (peg) to a short respite before swinging right onto the arete in an outrageous position. Engage turbo thruster and climb boldly up the arete to a final dramatic move at the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start up the detached flake, past a thread, continue into a shallow niche. Unobvious moves lead to a peg then a good rest ledge. From here move out onto the arete (peg) and beast it to the top.
North Wales Super Route E6's , North Wales Rock Graded List , James' 2015 Summer. , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , Classic Lobs , James' Summer Ticklist , Definitive *** Llanberis , North Wales E5s
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Ed morris | 15 May, 2022 |
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βeta: The Peg is gone but the route is probably better for it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The Peg is gone but the route is probably better for it. |
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Alex Hall | 8 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: So the final peg is no more... sorry | βeta? | |
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βeta: So the final peg is no more... sorry |
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George_Surf | 13 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Doesn’t take many cams so bring a lot of draws | ||
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βeta: Doesn’t take many cams so bring a lot of draws |
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Misha | 9 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: In situ lower off (shared with Roc Ness Monster) - peg and a wire. Consider adding extra gear if you feel it's necessary... Added a long piece of tat 8.7.19 - the idea is to be able to re-equalise it to ab down / belay either Roc Ness or King Wad. Didn't have a knife handy to cut out the old tat. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: In situ lower off (shared with Roc Ness Monster) - peg and a wire. Consider adding extra gear if you feel it's necessary... Added a long piece of tat 8.7.19 - the idea is to be able to re-equalise it to ab down / belay either Roc Ness or King Wad. Didn't have a knife handy to cut out the old tat. |
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Theo Moore | 24 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: First go fell off reversing from the peg (to whoever told me to do this: you are wrong and I will never forgive you). Hard wild moves up the arete with a big throw to finish, although there is apparently an easier way to do it. | ||
Show beta
βeta: First go fell off reversing from the peg (to whoever told me to do this: you are wrong and I will never forgive you). Hard wild moves up the arete with a big throw to finish, although there is apparently an easier way to do it. |
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Grade: E6 6a ***
(Craig yr Aderyn (Bird Rock))