A stunning line that culminates in the wildly exposed slim corner in the centre of the headwall. Start as for Bridge's Route.
1) 4a, 23m. As for Bridge's Route.
2) 4b, 12m. As for Bridge's Route. Easy to combine these two.
3) 6a, 45m. Climb cracks above the belay to a spike (as for Central Pillar). Continue direct to below where the headwall rears up and traverse rightwards to below a small overhang. Move past the overhang (small wires above) and then make a technical sequence left to a small corner (good wires). Move up the small corner and make a difficult move left to gain the base of the slim corner. Follow the corner in a sensational position to an easier groove above a bulge. Finish up the groove passing a final overhang. Follow Medusa Wall to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A truly magnificent and awe inspiring route.
1. 30m(5a) Pitch 1 Central Pillar Direct Start.
2. 18m(5a) Pitch 2 C.P. Direct Start.
3. 24m(6b) The initial belay has caused concern.
Traverse left to the steep wall, up and left to the slim corner. The moves to get on the ledge before the crux can be a little worrying. Usually there is a nut insitu on the crux. After a bulge follow a slab.
4. 9m (4c) Cross the wall to the arete.
After the flat hand hold go straight into the underclings which
lead into the corner. This is steady E2 climbing.
The climbing is stunning and the line is probably one of
the best in the UK.
Rod Valentine and paul Braithwaite (3 pts aid); FFA Martin and Bob Berzins 08/08/1977 05/May/1974.