A beautiful line up the slim groove right of the distinct red edge. Airy climbing and positions. Start by scrambling up to the base which is hidden in a chimney/gully.
1) 5a, 40m. Climb the chimney until you can step right onto the wall. Follow edges up right then back left past a short run-out to a groove. Climb this to a small overlap, making occasional use of the left arete. Pull around and finish up the easier groove above. Abseil off here or finish up the easier second pitch.
2) 4c, 25m. Climb up the flake to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start at the foot of a wide chimney in the left edge of the face reached by a short scramble.
1. 39m(5a)Climb the chimney for 5m (often damp, but juggy) past the first steepening where a rising flake line leads R out onto the arete. Follow this, making a step left to pass a small roof into the sustained groove above. Belay in an obvious niche or on a ledge 3m above.
2. 21m(4c) Continue directly via an obvious large flake.
Allan Austin, NJ Soper and Eric Metcalf. 1962.
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