Off to the side of Central Pillar is this big line that comes in and out of condition depending on the build up of moss on its third pitch. Best to wait for a good dry spell. Start at the base of the clean strip of slab gained via a scramble.1) 40m. Climb the slab up and rightwards to a vegetated terrace. Traverse this left to a belay.2) 12m. A short corner/groove gains another grassy terrace that is crossed until below the huge corner.3) 5a, 25m. Take the slab on the right until moves back left gain the corner that leads up to below a bulge. Pass the bulge with difficulty to reach a belay at a spike.4) 5a, 12m. Take the hard wall right of the corner past a ledge to a flake from where a traverse right gains a ledge and belay.5) 5a, 12m. Climb the corner on the left to the overhang and make some committing moves right to good holds and a ledge and belay above - 'The Waiting Room'.6) 5a, 22m. The leaning crack - 'Frankland's Crack' - relents at a slab.7) 4c, 10m. Finish up the undercut flake-crack on the right wall. © Rockfax
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Raven Crag (Highstile))
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