The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.
Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.
Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:
Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Lumbar Puncture/Epic Dural. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.
A tricky initial section. Begin at a thin crack system that starts just to the right of the lowest point of the left-hand side of The Glacis. Climb the thin crack with difficulty and then a ramp on the right for 4m until moves straight up meet Lunar Landscape. Finish as for Lunar Landscape left of the buddleia. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start just right of the lowest point of the slab. The crack looks easy and well-protected but it isn't. Climb the crack and move right up the ramp for 4m; then make a reachy move to the diagonal crack of Lunar Landscape. One move right along this gains wide cracks which lead easily to a sapling lower-off.
FA. J.Stanbury, R.A.Broomhead 24/Apr/2002.
Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20 , Fairy Cave Quarry - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Fairy Cave Quarry VS-E1 Challenge , Somerset Sufferfest
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