The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.
Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.
Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:
Descents:
Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Lumbar Puncture/Epic Dural. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.
FA. B.Mullan, C.Lindley 31/Oct/2010.
Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20 , Fairy Cave Quarry - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Fairy Cave Quarry VS-E1 Challenge , Somerset Sufferfest
User | Date | Notes | ||
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JimOakleyAdventures | 6 Jun |
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βeta: Nice VS with again the last 3m providing thought. No chains or abseil strop there now as the tree is rotten. | ||
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βeta: Nice VS with again the last 3m providing thought. No chains or abseil strop there now as the tree is rotten. |
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Marshyman | 12 Feb, 2022 |
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βeta: Pretty stiff for VS especially when you can’t feel your fingers and have no micros. Lovely route though. Harder than Rob’s Crack. More than 1 star. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pretty stiff for VS especially when you can’t feel your fingers and have no micros. Lovely route though. Harder than Rob’s Crack. More than 1 star. |
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Rhaegalex | 17 Nov, 2020 |
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βeta: Quite a run out end if you dont have microwires! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Quite a run out end if you dont have microwires! |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Fairy Cave Quarry)