UKC

27m. Scramble up from the right to trees at the base of the slab a few feet right of the corner. Climb easily for 3m. Make harder moves up to reach runner placements where the crack starts. Climb the crack steeply to a large ash, then follow the widening crack easily up rightwards.

FA. Cerberus Speleological Society 1992.

Ticklists

Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20 , Fairy Cave Quarry - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Bristol Crack School , Fairy Cave Quarry VS-E1 Challenge

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User Date Notes
quis 9 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Abseil point on a tree to the left as you top out. Can reach the ground on a doubled-up 60m rope
βeta?
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βeta: Abseil point on a tree to the left as you top out. Can reach the ground on a doubled-up 60m rope
Tall Oak 26 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Added spice with a bees / wasps nest in the left flanks of the crack going up. Word of warning for those going up the overhanging crack to the left. Cool route however.
βeta?
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βeta: Added spice with a bees / wasps nest in the left flanks of the crack going up. Word of warning for those going up the overhanging crack to the left. Cool route however.
JLT 10 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely a Summer Route. Did on a dry, sunny day in November, but still damp due to never getting the sun in Winter.
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βeta: Definitely a Summer Route. Did on a dry, sunny day in November, but still damp due to never getting the sun in Winter.
Mr MRS 23 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The crux seemed to be making it to the actual wall over all the slippy and muddy grass. Get some gear in early even if that first bit seems like an easy scramble.
Show beta
βeta: The crux seemed to be making it to the actual wall over all the slippy and muddy grass. Get some gear in early even if that first bit seems like an easy scramble.

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