UKC

30m.

Rockfax Description
Pleasing technical moves that can be well-protected. Start to the right of the Withy Crack belay at a small cave entrance. Move up to below a small overhang and pull out left onto the slab. Head up past three saplings to the headwall and take a left-leading thin crack to join and finish as for Withy Crack. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A good climb, which is still clinging on to its E1 status, although absolutely at the bottom end. Start at the cave entrance 10m right of the Withy Crack belay. Move up and step left; then gain the slab. Climb the slab to the third of 3 saplings, where the wall steepens. Move leftwards up a thin crack to gain pockets. Nice technical moves on the wall above lead to the exit of Withy Crack.

FA. M.Raine, M.Hammill 30/Mar/2002.

Ticklists

Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20 , Bristol 1st E1s , Fairy Cave Quarry - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Fairy Cave Quarry VS-E1 Challenge , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4 , 22 For 2022 , Devon and surrounding counties, 51 E1, some E2, 1 E3 and an E9

Feedback

User Date Notes
badgerjockey 19 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Tat and maillon ab point added to the tree to the left of the top
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tat and maillon ab point added to the tree to the left of the top
Labergorce 27 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely route, definitely soft at E1. Massive thanks and kudos to whoever cut back all the undergrowth on the ledge in the last 2 weeks. It\'s a much nicer place to be now!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lovely route, definitely soft at E1. Massive thanks and kudos to whoever cut back all the undergrowth on the ledge in the last 2 weeks. It's a much nicer place to be now!
Ashley King 24 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Bomber thread and offset help protect the hardest moves.
Show beta
βeta: Bomber thread and offset help protect the hardest moves.

Logged Ascents

442 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Fairy Cave Quarry

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 64 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 90
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 82
Votes cast 80
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sullenberger (WW)

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)

Loading Notifications...