The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.
Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.
Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:
Descents:
Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Lumbar Puncture/Epic Dural. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.
Rockfax Description
Pleasing technical moves that can be well-protected. Start to the right of the Withy Crack belay at a small cave entrance. Move up to below a small overhang and pull out left onto the slab. Head up past three saplings to the headwall and take a left-leading thin crack to join and finish as for Withy Crack. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A good climb, which is still clinging on to its E1 status, although absolutely at the bottom end. Start at the cave entrance 10m right of the Withy Crack belay. Move up and step left; then gain the slab. Climb the slab to the third of 3 saplings, where the wall steepens. Move leftwards up a thin crack to gain pockets. Nice technical moves on the wall above lead to the exit of Withy Crack.
FA. M.Raine, M.Hammill 30/Mar/2002.
Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20 , Bristol 1st E1s , Fairy Cave Quarry - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Fairy Cave Quarry VS-E1 Challenge , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4 , 22 For 2022 , Devon and surrounding counties, 51 E1, some E2, 1 E3 and an E9
User | Date | Notes | ||
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badgerjockey | 19 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: Tat and maillon ab point added to the tree to the left of the top | βeta? | |
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βeta: Tat and maillon ab point added to the tree to the left of the top |
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Labergorce | 27 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Lovely route, definitely soft at E1. Massive thanks and kudos to whoever cut back all the undergrowth on the ledge in the last 2 weeks. It\'s a much nicer place to be now! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lovely route, definitely soft at E1. Massive thanks and kudos to whoever cut back all the undergrowth on the ledge in the last 2 weeks. It's a much nicer place to be now! |
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Ashley King | 24 Apr, 2019 |
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βeta: Bomber thread and offset help protect the hardest moves. | ||
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βeta: Bomber thread and offset help protect the hardest moves. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)