UKC Logbook - 'Lussato'

Rockfax Description
An excellent little route which can be tagged on after an ascent of Torre Piccola.
Start just above the base of the gully between the two towers, below a corner. It is marked with red paint.
1) IV, 40m. Climb the short but enjoyable corner. Continue direct into a second corner then avoid a crack to its right to belay in a niche.
2) IV, 40m. Trend right above the niche and climb a crack direct, following the arete with sustained climbing for the grade. Reach a stance on a good ledge.
3) IV, 40m. Climb direct from the belay with steep and enjoyable climbing then follow a chimney to a group of small pinnacles.
4) III, 40m. Move diagonally right over scree to a gully. From here, either follow the faded red markers left (easier) or (recommended) continue right then direct with enjoyable climbing on juggy holds, following newer red markers to reach the shoulder below the summit.
5) I, 50m. Continue easily left to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Two good pitches, then deterioates to scambling

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel

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User	Date		Notes
C Rettiw	11 Jul, 2024	Show βeta βeta: Comici and area in general was so busy, we ended up on this. Pitch 1 has a short bit of climbing (second corner) amidst scrambling. Severe? Cemented ring and spike belay. Pitch 2: Rockfax topo is wrong, as mistakenly shows the route as being left of the crack and arete. But, text is correct: head right from belay, up the wall right of the (often wet) crack, and then out to the arete. Follow this past the odd cemented ring to a large ledge with a belay on a larger cemented ring and a crack for gear. Ace pitch for the grade in an awesome position! HS? Pitch 3: naff, VDiff. Pitch 4: Mod scrambling, better done in trainers. There is no pitch 5: you just walk along a path. Descent down the gully is a lot of fun, and no real need to abseil for most climbers, but be careful of loose rock. Not loads of fixed gear... just some very well spaced cemented rings on p.2 and a few bolts for belays (1, 2 and at the top). Rock generally good quality.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Comici and area in general was so busy, we ended up on this. Pitch 1 has a short bit of climbing (second corner) amidst scrambling. Severe? Cemented ring and spike belay. Pitch 2: Rockfax topo is wrong, as mistakenly shows the route as being left of the crack and arete. But, text is correct: head right from belay, up the wall right of the (often wet) crack, and then out to the arete. Follow this past the odd cemented ring to a large ledge with a belay on a larger cemented ring and a crack for gear. Ace pitch for the grade in an awesome position! HS? Pitch 3: naff, VDiff. Pitch 4: Mod scrambling, better done in trainers. There is no pitch 5: you just walk along a path. Descent down the gully is a lot of fun, and no real need to abseil for most climbers, but be careful of loose rock. Not loads of fixed gear... just some very well spaced cemented rings on p.2 and a few bolts for belays (1, 2 and at the top). Rock generally good quality.