A great if slightly harder alternative to the popular routes on Torre Piccola. Start at the base of a corner-crack with a cemented peg on the left, just right of a line of bolts.
1) IV, 40m. Climb the corner to its end, then follow grassy terraces to the top of a small pillar. Belay on a cemented peg.
2) III, 25m. Climb diagonally left then follow a vegetated ramp back right. Belay below a slab.
3) IV, 40m. Climb direct from the belay to a corner. Climb this then exit right at half-height over easier ground. Belay just right of the base of a second smaller corner.
4) III, 25m. Move diagonally right easily over vegetated ground towards a small gully. Follow this to the arete then continue direct over vegetated rock to the stance.
5) IV, 35m. Climb a slab just left of the arete. The going is steep at first but becomes easier over grassy rock. Continue past shrubs to a grassy gully on the left. It is possible to exit left here via a metal cable to reach the saddle between the two towers.
6) V-, 30m. Climb the excellent featured slab above the belay right then back left towards the arete. Move back right, aiming for a dead tree, belaying just before it.
7) V-, 15m. Traverse 6m left from the belay then continue left to a good ledge.
8) IV+, 35m. Climb a vertical crack for a few metres then move right into an open gully. Climb past a chockstone and belay by a flake on the right below the a yellow corner.
9) V, 30m. Climb a succession of chimneys and cracks formed by the detached yellow pillar above and left of the belay. Belay at the top of the pillar.
10) V+, 25m. Bridge across to the main face and continue up the polished slab to a small ledge. Climb direct, keeping just left of a deep crack then continue on easier but shattered rock moving left. Belay on a cemented peg on the ridge.
11) I, 50m. Climb easy ground to the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
first 5 pitches does not go much above IV (HS4B ish) however, second 5 pitches is where the fun begins.
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