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16m.

Rockfax Description
Popular but a bit bolder than you might be expecting. Start up Gamma but follow the diagonal crack out right to the left end of a heathery ledge. Balance right and finish up the juggy wall just left to the next crack (Trapeze Direct). © Rockfax

FA. Nat Allen 1951.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans, Chatsworth to Bamford, Froggatt Slabs (Eastern Grit recommended ticklist), ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and HS

Feedback

User Date Notes
wilf1 23 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: This was my first 'S' lead !! Absolutley brilliant fun. Found it reasonably easy even tho my 2 climbing partners were crying with laughter at something else, thankfully! A bit thin for gear in the middle section but keep goin for the letter box on the rightof the traverse.
βeta?
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βeta: This was my first 'S' lead !! Absolutley brilliant fun. Found it reasonably easy even tho my 2 climbing partners were crying with laughter at something else, thankfully! A bit thin for gear in the middle section but keep goin for the letter box on the rightof the traverse.
pdhu 5 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Sweet route this- shame about the antique chipping. Managed to protect the traverse by mashing in a copperhead (only joking).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Sweet route this- shame about the antique chipping. Managed to protect the traverse by mashing in a copperhead (only joking).
Liam M 25 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Really good route for playing with your head. Traverse not difficult, but feels a little precarious (and maybe a little polished), and somewhat awkward to protect and so feels slightly run out and exposed. Well worth doing.
βeta?
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βeta: Really good route for playing with your head. Traverse not difficult, but feels a little precarious (and maybe a little polished), and somewhat awkward to protect and so feels slightly run out and exposed. Well worth doing.
Si dH 25 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: upper end of severe for that traverse, definitely
βeta?
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βeta: upper end of severe for that traverse, definitely
Dale Berry 29 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A relly nice route. I think the foot traverse is not too hard, with plenty for feet, there's just no gear till the end of it. A good 'head' climb. Much better, from the seconds point of view, to use half ropes so there is some protection for the traverse.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A relly nice route. I think the foot traverse is not too hard, with plenty for feet, there's just no gear till the end of it. A good 'head' climb. Much better, from the seconds point of view, to use half ropes so there is some protection for the traverse.

Logged Ascents

2073 users have logged this
75 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High HS
Mid HS
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High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 181
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 165
Votes cast 163
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Balcony Buttress

Grade: S 4a ***
(Stanage Popular)