Rockfax Description
From a boulder, mantel onto a narrow ledge then use the old peg hole (6a for the short) to gain finger-holds and easier climbing. Soft, but unprotected. © Rockfax
FA. Al Rouse (solo) 1969.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Best slab climbs of the UK , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Ultimate E3 ticklist , CUMC First Ascents , Memorable Climbs , Froggatt Slabs (Eastern Grit recommended ticklist) , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Grit solos hvs -e3 , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Jaimey's tricky slab list , The Eal List , Winter 23/24 , Frogatt 30
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Chris Foxy | 3 May, 2021 |
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βeta: crux is getting off the foot ledge near the start, rest steady away | ||
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βeta: crux is getting off the foot ledge near the start, rest steady away |
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The old James turnbull | 29 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: my friend tested the cam in the slot (alien) and held three falls one from above the crux with no damage. worth while, but a mat also is good, but then never e3 | ||
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βeta: my friend tested the cam in the slot (alien) and held three falls one from above the crux with no damage. worth while, but a mat also is good, but then never e3 |
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Tommy G | 8 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: Did this a few weeks ago and though it was a really good route. Intense to start but does relax towards the top. I would advise a matt though against the opinions of others as a fall would be a leg breaker! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Did this a few weeks ago and though it was a really good route. Intense to start but does relax towards the top. I would advise a matt though against the opinions of others as a fall would be a leg breaker! |
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Graham Hoey | 25 May, 2006 |
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βeta: If you are short, start with your left-hand in the peg slot and climb. The tall start with their right in and just reach - c'est la vie! | ||
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βeta: If you are short, start with your left-hand in the peg slot and climb. The tall start with their right in and just reach - c'est la vie! |
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Pythonist | 15 May, 2006 |
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βeta: Forget gear. Another great slab, where you start off thinking "I'll just have a go", get passed the crux, then scare yourself into having to finish it! Easy 5c, and "narrow" ledge? It's huge! I would say this is a slightly harder version of the top section of Brown's Eliminate. Very similary style, slightly harder moves, but low down without gear as opposed to high with gear a long way away! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Forget gear. Another great slab, where you start off thinking "I'll just have a go", get passed the crux, then scare yourself into having to finish it! Easy 5c, and "narrow" ledge? It's huge! I would say this is a slightly harder version of the top section of Brown's Eliminate. Very similary style, slightly harder moves, but low down without gear as opposed to high with gear a long way away! |
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alaan | 21 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: Had a red tricam in the slot- psychological gear only, passed the 'tentative' and even 'good tug' pull test and certainly helped commit to the moves...but the gear failed the 'full-body-sliding-down-slab' test, as a friend found out (sorry pete!). | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Had a red tricam in the slot- psychological gear only, passed the 'tentative' and even 'good tug' pull test and certainly helped commit to the moves...but the gear failed the 'full-body-sliding-down-slab' test, as a friend found out (sorry pete!). |
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match | 20 Feb, 2006 |
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βeta: Don't reckon 6a for the short (I'm 5'6, felt like a pretty standard 5c to me). | βeta? | |
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βeta: Don't reckon 6a for the short (I'm 5'6, felt like a pretty standard 5c to me). |
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Andrew Barker | 9 Feb, 2006 |
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βeta: Sweet! Would be even better if the difficulties continued beyond the low crux but I was quite glad that the remainder was a romp. Took me a while to pluck up the courage to move off the ledge as I could only just reach the lowest crimps at full stretch. Smearing my feet while at full strech felt hard! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Sweet! Would be even better if the difficulties continued beyond the low crux but I was quite glad that the remainder was a romp. Took me a while to pluck up the courage to move off the ledge as I could only just reach the lowest crimps at full stretch. Smearing my feet while at full strech felt hard! |
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petellis | 8 Feb, 2006 |
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βeta: a red tricam goes in the low slot, it feels good - it doesn't hold though! | βeta? | |
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βeta: a red tricam goes in the low slot, it feels good - it doesn't hold though! |
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The old James turnbull | 9 Nov, 2005 |
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βeta: nick smith is right, it takes a red size alien (one up from yellow) and seems pretty bomber. still had room for my foot too. didnt have to test though but looked good. definatly harder for shart. from the ledge i could reach first crimps and my second couldnt and found it quite a bit harder. | βeta? | |
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βeta: nick smith is right, it takes a red size alien (one up from yellow) and seems pretty bomber. still had room for my foot too. didnt have to test though but looked good. definatly harder for shart. from the ledge i could reach first crimps and my second couldnt and found it quite a bit harder. |
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Gripped | 26 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: Another Froggatt route that attracts an audience, which is enough incentive to avoid fluffing the crux. An easy top section. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Another Froggatt route that attracts an audience, which is enough incentive to avoid fluffing the crux. An easy top section. |
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Katya | 11 Mar, 2004 |
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βeta: Well, a mate of mine put a tri cam in the pocket. Lobbed off with his feet next to it and didn't deck out. Sadly I think he lobbed off because of the tri-cam blocking his foothold. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Well, a mate of mine put a tri cam in the pocket. Lobbed off with his feet next to it and didn't deck out. Sadly I think he lobbed off because of the tri-cam blocking his foothold. |
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Nick Smith - Climbers | 21 Feb, 2004 |
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βeta: Has anyone managed to get good gear in that initial peg slot? Looks like it might take a large Alien (size up from the yellow one ?) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Has anyone managed to get good gear in that initial peg slot? Looks like it might take a large Alien (size up from the yellow one ?) |
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Chatsworth Edge)