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14m.

Rockfax Description
From a lurking boulder, mantel onto a narrow ledge then use the old peg hole (6a for the short) to gain finger-holds and easier climbing. Soft, but unprotected. Pads help lower the grade. Long John's Left-hand is a different ball-game at E6 6c. © Rockfax

FA. Al Rouse (solo) 1969.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Best slab climbs of the UK, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, Ultimate E3 ticklist, CUMC First Ascents, Memorable Climbs, Froggatt Slabs (Eastern Grit recommended ticklist), Peak District Grit Graded List

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User Date Notes
The old James turnbull 29 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: my friend tested the cam in the slot (alien) and held three falls one from above the crux with no damage. worth while, but a mat also is good, but then never e3
βeta?
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βeta: my friend tested the cam in the slot (alien) and held three falls one from above the crux with no damage. worth while, but a mat also is good, but then never e3
Tommy G 8 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Did this a few weeks ago and though it was a really good route. Intense to start but does relax towards the top. I would advise a matt though against the opinions of others as a fall would be a leg breaker!
βeta?
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βeta: Did this a few weeks ago and though it was a really good route. Intense to start but does relax towards the top. I would advise a matt though against the opinions of others as a fall would be a leg breaker!
Graham Hoey 25 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: If you are short, start with your left-hand in the peg slot and climb. The tall start with their right in and just reach - c'est la vie!
βeta?
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βeta: If you are short, start with your left-hand in the peg slot and climb. The tall start with their right in and just reach - c'est la vie!
Pythonist 15 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Forget gear. Another great slab, where you start off thinking "I'll just have a go", get passed the crux, then scare yourself into having to finish it! Easy 5c, and "narrow" ledge? It's huge! I would say this is a slightly harder version of the top section of Brown's Eliminate. Very similary style, slightly harder moves, but low down without gear as opposed to high with gear a long way away!
βeta?
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βeta: Forget gear. Another great slab, where you start off thinking "I'll just have a go", get passed the crux, then scare yourself into having to finish it! Easy 5c, and "narrow" ledge? It's huge! I would say this is a slightly harder version of the top section of Brown's Eliminate. Very similary style, slightly harder moves, but low down without gear as opposed to high with gear a long way away!
alaan 21 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Had a red tricam in the slot- psychological gear only, passed the 'tentative' and even 'good tug' pull test and certainly helped commit to the moves...but the gear failed the 'full-body-sliding-down-slab' test, as a friend found out (sorry pete!).
βeta?
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βeta: Had a red tricam in the slot- psychological gear only, passed the 'tentative' and even 'good tug' pull test and certainly helped commit to the moves...but the gear failed the 'full-body-sliding-down-slab' test, as a friend found out (sorry pete!).
match 20 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Don't reckon 6a for the short (I'm 5'6, felt like a pretty standard 5c to me).
βeta?
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βeta: Don't reckon 6a for the short (I'm 5'6, felt like a pretty standard 5c to me).
Andrew Barker 9 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Sweet! Would be even better if the difficulties continued beyond the low crux but I was quite glad that the remainder was a romp. Took me a while to pluck up the courage to move off the ledge as I could only just reach the lowest crimps at full stretch. Smearing my feet while at full strech felt hard!
βeta?
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βeta: Sweet! Would be even better if the difficulties continued beyond the low crux but I was quite glad that the remainder was a romp. Took me a while to pluck up the courage to move off the ledge as I could only just reach the lowest crimps at full stretch. Smearing my feet while at full strech felt hard!
petellis 8 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: a red tricam goes in the low slot, it feels good - it doesn't hold though!
βeta?
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βeta: a red tricam goes in the low slot, it feels good - it doesn't hold though!
The old James turnbull 9 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: nick smith is right, it takes a red size alien (one up from yellow) and seems pretty bomber. still had room for my foot too. didnt have to test though but looked good. definatly harder for shart. from the ledge i could reach first crimps and my second couldnt and found it quite a bit harder.
βeta?
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βeta: nick smith is right, it takes a red size alien (one up from yellow) and seems pretty bomber. still had room for my foot too. didnt have to test though but looked good. definatly harder for shart. from the ledge i could reach first crimps and my second couldnt and found it quite a bit harder.
Gripped 26 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Another Froggatt route that attracts an audience, which is enough incentive to avoid fluffing the crux. An easy top section.
βeta?
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βeta: Another Froggatt route that attracts an audience, which is enough incentive to avoid fluffing the crux. An easy top section.
Katya 11 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Well, a mate of mine put a tri cam in the pocket. Lobbed off with his feet next to it and didn't deck out. Sadly I think he lobbed off because of the tri-cam blocking his foothold.
βeta?
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βeta: Well, a mate of mine put a tri cam in the pocket. Lobbed off with his feet next to it and didn't deck out. Sadly I think he lobbed off because of the tri-cam blocking his foothold.
Nick Smith - Climbers 21 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Has anyone managed to get good gear in that initial peg slot? Looks like it might take a large Alien (size up from the yellow one ?)
βeta?
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βeta: Has anyone managed to get good gear in that initial peg slot? Looks like it might take a large Alien (size up from the yellow one ?)

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 100
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 102
Votes cast 95
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Toproped
Lead
Followed
Bouldered
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Robert Brown

Grade: E3 5c ***
(High Tor)