Rockfax Description
A brilliant, varied expedition. The initial pitches are steep, but after the fourth pitch the angle lies back a little, the rock becomes more compact and gives slabbier climbing. All but one of the belays are on comfortable ledges. Start at a slight clearing where a large cairn marks the start and 'LLUVIA' is scratched into the rock. The first protection is an fixed thread.
1) 5c, 30m. Start up a slab and then the steepening wall. Continue up a right-trending groove to a belay.
2) 5c, 30m. Head slightly right to a perched block. Carefully pull on the block up a short corner to easier climbing up the right-trending groove above to a belay.
3) 5b, 34m. Steep moves gain a corner. Exit the corner onto slabbier ground where technical climbing leads to a belay.
4) 5c, 40m. A fantastic pitch. Head right past white rock to a wild position on the arete. Move over a bulge to a large groove. Follow this to a belay. Care with some rock required.
5) 4b, 22m. Climb the slab, trending right, to a belay at a tree.
6) 5b, 30m. Up the slab passing some tricky bulges.
7) 5b, 30m. Step right and climb the slab to a ledge. Climb the steep shallow corner and easier slabs to a belay on a broad vegetated ledge.
8) 5c, 35m. Climb the slabby grey rib to an orange overlap. Traverse left under the overlap to a corner. Move up the corner, passing right of a tree to a belay.
Descent - The route reaches the summit of a pinnacle. From the belay, head left and scramble for 10m over blocks to a small flat grassy patch. The abseil point is visible straight on from here. Make a single 35m abseil down the vegetated slope - 70m rope is essential. From the base of the abseil, scramble with care downwards and skirt right to a cairn. Traverse around a rib until more cairns are visible. A tricky down climb leads to less exposed terrain. Follow further cairns and a rough path until a scree field is reached. At this point the path becomes more defined. Cross the scree and continue following cairns to the notch in the ridge line to join the Amptrax descent at the large notch - p.63. © Rockfax
Ticklists
El Chorro multipitch , El Chorro , Ryan's Multipitch Climbs (Europe) , El Chorro Recommendations (6a-7b) , ROCKFAX El Chorro 2018: Top 50 , El Chorro Recommendations
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| RBonney | 24 Sep |
Show βeta
βeta: Instead of following the descent in the guide you can keep going up a ridge. There's 3 or 4 pitches above the ridge of easy clombing/scrambling. It's a much better way to end the route. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Instead of following the descent in the guide you can keep going up a ridge. There's 3 or 4 pitches above the ridge of easy clombing/scrambling. It's a much better way to end the route. |
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| Will789 | 20 Dec, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Be sure to keep to the left hand bolt line on p7&8 as very easy to follow the easy terrain off route! Also the abseil chains are located about 30m back and left from the top of the route, not the ‘10m left’ described in the guide, they are hard to find but look for the heart scratched on the rock. The walk off is absolutely fine but it would be very easy to get lost on exposed terrain if doing it in the dark. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Be sure to keep to the left hand bolt line on p7&8 as very easy to follow the easy terrain off route! Also the abseil chains are located about 30m back and left from the top of the route, not the ‘10m left’ described in the guide, they are hard to find but look for the heart scratched on the rock. The walk off is absolutely fine but it would be very easy to get lost on exposed terrain if doing it in the dark. |
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| FelixC | 19 Dec, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Sun rise to sun set outing. Guidebook true to its words. Absolutely phenomenal climbing through out and varied climbing. Lead all pitches, confidence grew as I went higher. Kevin's first multi pitch experience! Some choss in the mid pitches. Down climbed to recycle some quickdraws on the long pitches. Apparently there are two abseil stations at the top (the 35m one needs a bit more scrambling, we used the 37m one so we had to gingerly down climb at the end of the abseil). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Sun rise to sun set outing. Guidebook true to its words. Absolutely phenomenal climbing through out and varied climbing. Lead all pitches, confidence grew as I went higher. Kevin's first multi pitch experience! Some choss in the mid pitches. Down climbed to recycle some quickdraws on the long pitches. Apparently there are two abseil stations at the top (the 35m one needs a bit more scrambling, we used the 37m one so we had to gingerly down climb at the end of the abseil). |
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| Claire Carpenter | 11 Jan, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Bottom 2 pitches are hardest and steepest though the climb doesn’t ever loose interest. A cracking adventure - which can be extended by adding on the last 4-5 pitches of the route to its RHS called Fanatik@s (372m). All these extra pitches are under grade V along or near the ridge line. They can be easily joined from the top pitch of ‘Asteroids’. After you do the extra 120m of climbing, follow the ridge to the top of the mountain and walk over the top (towards the Arab Steps) and descend that way back down to the road/forrest. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Bottom 2 pitches are hardest and steepest though the climb doesn’t ever loose interest. A cracking adventure - which can be extended by adding on the last 4-5 pitches of the route to its RHS called Fanatik@s (372m). All these extra pitches are under grade V along or near the ridge line. They can be easily joined from the top pitch of ‘Asteroids’. After you do the extra 120m of climbing, follow the ridge to the top of the mountain and walk over the top (towards the Arab Steps) and descend that way back down to the road/forrest. |
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| Gazmataz | 17 May, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: It looks like there is a new route that crosses at the top 2 pitches. It’s fairly well labeled coming off one belay but you could mistake it on the final pitch. Follow the guide books description and take the left line of bolts, not the easier looking right line. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: It looks like there is a new route that crosses at the top 2 pitches. It’s fairly well labeled coming off one belay but you could mistake it on the final pitch. Follow the guide books description and take the left line of bolts, not the easier looking right line. |
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| Kat_yes | 28 Jun, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: After absail, turn right with back against wall to find path to go back home | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: After absail, turn right with back against wall to find path to go back home |
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| Justsomeclimber | 15 Mar, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: The abseil (to access the scramble) you can get away with on a 65m | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The abseil (to access the scramble) you can get away with on a 65m |
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| Sam Willis | 31 Dec, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 4 is over a bulge and you totally lose all communication so work out a system before climbing! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Pitch 4 is over a bulge and you totally lose all communication so work out a system before climbing! |
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| Keith Lambley | 30 Oct, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: The abseil point has a heart scratched on the rock making it easier to spot | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The abseil point has a heart scratched on the rock making it easier to spot |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Frontales
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Esther
Grade: 5c ***
(Cala del Moral)