UKC

251m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A brilliant, varied expedition. The initial pitches are steep, but after the fourth pitch the angle lies back a little, the rock becomes more compact and gives slabbier climbing. All but one of the belays are on comfortable ledges. Start at a slight clearing where a large cairn marks the start and 'LLUVIA' is scratched into the rock. The first protection is an fixed thread.

1) 5c, 30m. Start up a slab and then the steepening wall. Continue up a right-trending groove to a belay.
2) 5c, 30m. Head slightly right to a perched block. Carefully pull on the block up a short corner to easier climbing up the right-trending groove above to a belay.
3) 5b, 34m. Steep moves gain a corner. Exit the corner onto slabbier ground where technical climbing leads to a belay.
4) 5c, 40m. A fantastic pitch. Head right past white rock to a wild position on the arete. Move over a bulge to a large groove. Follow this to a belay. Care with some rock required.
5) 4b, 22m. Climb the slab, trending right, to a belay at a tree.
6) 5b, 30m. Up the slab passing some tricky bulges.
7) 5b, 30m. Step right and climb the slab to a ledge. Climb the steep shallow corner and easier slabs to a belay on a broad vegetated ledge.
8) 5c, 35m. Climb the slabby grey rib to an orange overlap. Traverse left under the overlap to a corner. Move up the corner, passing right of a tree to a belay.
Descent - The route reaches the summit of a pinnacle. From the belay, head left and scramble for 10m over blocks to a small flat grassy patch. The abseil point is visible straight on from here. Make a single 35m abseil down the vegetated slope - 70m rope is essential. From the base of the abseil, scramble with care downwards and skirt right to a cairn. Traverse around a rib until more cairns are visible. A tricky down climb leads to less exposed terrain. Follow further cairns and a rough path until a scree field is reached. At this point the path becomes more defined. Cross the scree and continue following cairns to the notch in the ridge line to join the Amptrax descent at the large notch - p.63. © Rockfax

Ticklists

El Chorro multipitch , El Chorro , Ryan's Multipitch Climbs (Europe)

Feedback

User Date Notes
Claire Carpenter 11 Jan Show βeta
βeta: Bottom 2 pitches are hardest and steepest though the climb doesn’t ever loose interest. A cracking adventure - which can be extended by adding on the last 4-5 pitches of the route to its RHS called Fanatik@s (372m). All these extra pitches are under grade V along or near the ridge line. They can be easily joined from the top pitch of ‘Asteroids’. After you do the extra 120m of climbing, follow the ridge to the top of the mountain and walk over the top (towards the Arab Steps) and descend that way back down to the road/forrest.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bottom 2 pitches are hardest and steepest though the climb doesn’t ever loose interest. A cracking adventure - which can be extended by adding on the last 4-5 pitches of the route to its RHS called Fanatik@s (372m). All these extra pitches are under grade V along or near the ridge line. They can be easily joined from the top pitch of ‘Asteroids’. After you do the extra 120m of climbing, follow the ridge to the top of the mountain and walk over the top (towards the Arab Steps) and descend that way back down to the road/forrest.
Gazmataz 17 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: It looks like there is a new route that crosses at the top 2 pitches. It’s fairly well labeled coming off one belay but you could mistake it on the final pitch. Follow the guide books description and take the left line of bolts, not the easier looking right line.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It looks like there is a new route that crosses at the top 2 pitches. It’s fairly well labeled coming off one belay but you could mistake it on the final pitch. Follow the guide books description and take the left line of bolts, not the easier looking right line.
Kat_yes 28 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: After absail, turn right with back against wall to find path to go back home
βeta?
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βeta: After absail, turn right with back against wall to find path to go back home
Justsomeclimber 15 Mar, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The abseil (to access the scramble) you can get away with on a 65m
βeta?
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βeta: The abseil (to access the scramble) you can get away with on a 65m
Sam Willis 31 Dec, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 4 is over a bulge and you totally lose all communication so work out a system before climbing!
βeta?
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βeta: Pitch 4 is over a bulge and you totally lose all communication so work out a system before climbing!
Keith Lambley 30 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The abseil point has a heart scratched on the rock making it easier to spot
βeta?
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βeta: The abseil point has a heart scratched on the rock making it easier to spot

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Voting
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 38
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Blue Line

Grade: 5c ***
(Escalera Arabe)

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