A brilliant, varied expedition. The initial pitches are steep, but after the fourth pitch the angle lies back a little, the rock becomes more compact and gives slabbier climbing. All but one of the belays are on comfortable ledges. Start at a slight clearing where a large cairn marks the start and 'LLUVIA' is scratched into the rock. The first protection is an fixed thread.
1) 5c, 30m. Start up a slab and then the steepening wall. Continue up a right-trending groove to a belay.
2) 5c, 30m. Head slightly right to a perched block. Carefully pull on the block up a short corner to easier climbing up the right-trending groove above to a belay.
3) 5b, 34m. Steep moves gain a corner. Exit the corner onto slabbier ground where technical climbing leads to a belay.
4) 5c, 40m. A fantastic pitch. Head right past white rock to a wild position on the arete. Move over a bulge to a large groove. Follow this to a belay. Care with some rock required.
5) 4b, 22m. Climb the slab, trending right, to a belay at a tree.
6) 5b, 30m. Up the slab passing some tricky bulges.
7) 5b, 30m. Step right and climb the slab to a ledge. Climb the steep shallow corner and easier slabs to a belay on a broad vegetated ledge.
8) 5c, 35m. Climb the slabby grey rib to an orange overlap. Traverse left under the overlap to a corner. Move up the corner, passing right of a tree to a belay.
Descent - The route reaches the summit of a pinnacle. From the belay, head left and scramble for 10m over blocks to a small flat grassy patch. The abseil point is visible straight on from here. Make a single 35m abseil down the vegetated slope - 70m rope is essential. From the base of the abseil, scramble with care downwards and skirt right to a cairn. Traverse around a rib until more cairns are visible. A tricky down climb leads to less exposed terrain. Follow further cairns and a rough path until a scree field is reached. At this point the path becomes more defined. Cross the scree and continue following cairns to the notch in the ridge line to join the Amptrax descent at the large notch - p.63. © Rockfax
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