UKC

130m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great expedition with good climbing throughout. The pitches are long and there are some intermediate abseil points on the first two long pitches that should not be confused for the main stances and belays.
1) 4a, 40m. Follow the rounded buttress, corner and wall past a chain to a good ledge and belay.
2) 5c, 40m. Move up left, climb to a cactus and then follow the crack above to another good ledge and belay.
3) 6a, 25m. Climb steepening rock on good holds to a belay.
4) 5c, 25m. Climb on past the final bulges to the top.
Descent - Abseil back down the line of the route using the intermediate abseil points on the long lower pitches. A 60m rope will suffice. © Rockfax

Ticklists

El Chorro dreams - 6a to 6c+ , El Chorro multipitch , El Chorro: Best Routes (6a-6c+) , 'Chorro chums , El Chorro Recommendations (6a-7b) , ROCKFAX El Chorro 2018: Top 50 , The Boys take on El Chorro (for the third time)

Feedback

User Date Notes
Anthony CHC 2 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Don\'t do it when it\'s windy otherwise it\'s freezing
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don't do it when it's windy otherwise it's freezing
FelixC 22 Dec, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Lead P1 and P3. P1 now starts as Nitti then climbs through Nitti's anchor then veers right back on route (someone's scratched a V at the start of the route). Fairly sure none of the dedicated ab stations are there any more aside from the intermediate ones but there are rings at the climbing route's anchors
Show beta
βeta: Lead P1 and P3. P1 now starts as Nitti then climbs through Nitti's anchor then veers right back on route (someone's scratched a V at the start of the route). Fairly sure none of the dedicated ab stations are there any more aside from the intermediate ones but there are rings at the climbing route's anchors
Cati 19 Dec, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The start of the climb seems to be wrong on the Rockfax guidebook. A local told me the start is further to the left, on the big clearing at the bottom of the wall. By the time she told me I'd already climbed a few metres on the spot marked in the book so I had to traverse left and clip the second or third bolt of the route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The start of the climb seems to be wrong on the Rockfax guidebook. A local told me the start is further to the left, on the big clearing at the bottom of the wall. By the time she told me I'd already climbed a few metres on the spot marked in the book so I had to traverse left and clip the second or third bolt of the route.
BCT 1 Dec, 2019 Show βeta
βeta:
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BCT 1 Dec, 2019 Show βeta
βeta:
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Ciderslider 22 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: A bit unclear as to where the first pitch starts - think it might be straight up the rib just to the right of a small black gecko painted on the rock
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A bit unclear as to where the first pitch starts - think it might be straight up the rib just to the right of a small black gecko painted on the rock

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 57
Votes cast 55
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Espolón Oderse

Grade: 6a ***
(Frontales)

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