Rockfax Description
A great route on solid rock which is about solid E2 in UK trad grade. Gain the base by a roped scramble up a loose gully.
1) 6a+, 20m. Climb the technical slab - bolts - the trickiest move is committing to a poor layback to reach a ledge below the top bolt. Continue up on improving holds to an overlap. Lip traverse right and climb a crack to a ledge peg and nut belay.
2) 6a, 30m. Gain the crack and climb to where it steepens. A technical traverse up and left gains a peg in the base of the crack. Ascend this to a bolt belay in a niche.
3) 20m. Go up and left making a tricky move over a bulge. Easier climbing leads up then make a traverse back right to a rib. This is on the other side of a steep loose corner, directly above the previous belay. Move up to a bolt belay. 10m of easy climbing leads to the true summit with rope sling around it.
Descent - Abseil from bolts at the top. © Rockfax

FA. Angel Bengoechea, Javier Saenz. 27.5.1995 27/May/1995.

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