UKC

60m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the Lake District's highest and most exposed VSs. Start from a belay at a wide crack in the middle of the face.

1) 4c, 25m. Start 3m left of the wide crack and climb confidently up the wall past a good hold until a move right gains the base of a pinnacle. Climb up past the pinnacle until a step right reaches another crack system that leads to a belay in a wide slot. Large cams are needed for the belay. Alternatively, take a hanging stance a little lower on a spike and other gear.
2) 4c, 34m. Step right to a crack and follow it to the base of the upper groove. Finish up the groove. If the groove is wet, take the crack on the left to the arete and finish up it in a very exposed position. Both finishes are superb. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Hard Rock, Great VS Climbs in the Lake District, Best slab climbs of the UK, MIA logbook must haves!, Select VS Climbs in the Lake District, UK Classic Corners, Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS, Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival 2017, FRCC Mega Classics, One day multipitch, UK Holiday Plans, Pre-MIA Wishlist, The best the lakes has to offer for mere mortals (because it's not always as wet as kez thinks), EUMC - Must do climbs, Nuts of Legends, Hard Rock 2020, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District, ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50, Big Routes 2020, Hard Rock 2020, 2020/21 Trips, Lakes Classic and Hard Rock Selection, Hard Rock & Other Classics, A Lakeland Apprenticeship, Lakeland VS Walking Tour, Must do, Alternative Lakeland Classic Rock

Feedback

User Date Notes
AC1 6 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Climbed this in September 2021. We both do a lot of winter climbing, and some routes handle the wear and tear of crampons and axes well (Eagle Ridge, the Ben classics) but not this route. It's a great summer climb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbed this in September 2021. We both do a lot of winter climbing, and some routes handle the wear and tear of crampons and axes well (Eagle Ridge, the Ben classics) but not this route. It's a great summer climb.
joe.91 22 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Would appreciate not having the loose melon shaped blocks above kicked off nearly killing 1 in 4 people.
Show beta
βeta: Would appreciate not having the loose melon shaped blocks above kicked off nearly killing 1 in 4 people.
gav 20 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Some very loose blocks at the exit to the groove finish - take care!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some very loose blocks at the exit to the groove finish - take care!
K Farrell 20 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Lots of loose stuff at the top of the v notch above this route. All very precariously balanced. Please be careful when walking around on the top, we had a rock dislodged on us.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lots of loose stuff at the top of the v notch above this route. All very precariously balanced. Please be careful when walking around on the top, we had a rock dislodged on us.
superturbo 1 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Large cams are not required for the belay as stated in guidebook
Show beta
βeta: Large cams are not required for the belay as stated in guidebook
George Mitson 23 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Some loose blocks in the middle of the route.
Show beta
βeta: Some loose blocks in the middle of the route.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 57
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 55
Votes cast 50
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Eagle's Nest Ridge Direct

Grade: VS 4b ***
(The Napes)
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