UKC

95m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A Lofoten classic up the highest part of the cliff with three good pitches - interesting, varied and well protected. Start up the left-facing groove behind a tree and a large boulder at the right side of the face.
1) N5, 40m. Climb the slippery groove and an awkward narrow chimney to reach and pass a small roof. Continue up the fine groove and then a slab to stance by a good crack. It is best to avoid belaying on the big loose blocks over to the right.
2) N5-, 35m. Traverse 5m to the right then climb a juggy bulge and awkward groove just to the right. Continue a short way then cross the delicate slab leftwards until past the arete. Now climb good finger-cracks to belay in the prominent yellow niche of the 'Eagle's Nest'. Care needed with rope drag on this pitch.
4) N5-, 25m. From the 'Eagle's Nest', step right around a small corner - exposed and delicate for a few moves - then follow an easier crack straight to the top.
4a) N6+ 25m. The original and much harder finish goes straight through the lip of the 'Eagle's Nest' up via strenuous jamming. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
1) 4c, 40m 2) 4c, 30m 3) 4b, 25m

FA. A. Meyer, K.O. Storvik, B Tollefsen (some aid) 1978.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Lofoten Rock Top 50 , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , Lofoten Mid Grade Routes , Norway Trip wishlist

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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Gollum

Grade: n5 ***
(Gandalf)

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